Tuning up your 15-2 -- The Average Joe method.... Page 3 Reloading, Gunsmithing and Grip Making The Dan Wesson Forum Forum

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Tuning up your 15-2 -- The Average Joe method....
January 4, 2011
8:13 pm
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dant
NE Ohio
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  That was an 'excellent' pictorial and some very GOOD information,made me feel like we were back at the factory putting together a “new” one… I can add that to remove the side plate, just hold the frame in your palm, side plate ( left side) upward and just tap on the grip frame stud, with a small hammer and the side plate will 'pop' off.

as for polishing, the two critical parts are the TOP( curved surface) of the trigger and the LOWER, bottom,backside of the double action strut (fly) in the front of the hammer…those two surfaces ride on each other and make the job “smoother, easier” …one can even put a bit of 'lubriplate; ( used for camshafts) on there to “smooth/mate” these two surfaces…….

as for the parts, they were actually sintered? (cast) so can be harder, and often will not take a 'shiny bluing', so look more matted.

  

 

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz3/rugerdan/8.jpgImage Enlarger

 

 

again, very NICE job well done………..

dant

January 4, 2011
9:54 pm
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Steve

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Guys, words from a guy that was trained by Daniel B., built guns in the Monson factory, and did it all. He and I are fairly sure that his shop did warranty work on my 15-2, way back in 1978 or so.

I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.

George Carlin

January 5, 2011
11:28 am
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dant
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Thank you Steve, yes, I was there, met Mr Wesson in May of 1976,  still have the buckle he personally handed to me ( marked on the back the date) he and I spent a few evenings “after work” when the plant closed and we sat and “chit'chatted, he taught and showed me a LOT and our shop Cleveland Bluing Co was one of the shops that did their “warranty service” back then and each of the guys in the shop ,went up later to be trained, I was the first…….

In fact ,our shop also did a conversion on the DWA 15-2 and chambered them in a 256 Win.  got written up in American Handgunner (Jan .Feb 1979 ) and they also did a story on us and in the words of Mr Rosenfeld ” at the time did the finest trigger job on their guns in his opinion.”

 Sadly Mr Wesson passed away, our shop closed up for 'other reasons' had a falling out among partners as to :”marketing/liability” in the .256, they were a PAIN in the butt to get “right”, even had to use the services of Mr Austin Behlert, and his shop did the vapor honing of the cylinders for us…………… A few years later, I did an article on the DWA's for the Police Marksman Association magazine in the early 80s, as I was a Life member and good friend of Les Dees, the publisher…So got to know and work with some very notable folks back then, shot with them in competition as well and yes, MY DWA was as GOOD as many of the others custom stuff, Pythons and the like…the DWA are THAT accurate ( in the hands of a good, better than me), shooter, capable of one hole groups…………..

   With raising a young family, 4 sons, had other obligations and priorities, so did NOT follow through and up on, many of the firearms business, just took care of department guns, and servicing others………….did finish a gun shop that the owner passed away, and we kept it running a few years longer, Eastlake Gun Service, and again, mainly LE sales and service, basic gun repairs & custom refinishing………….

so if we can “help” anyone, save them some time & money, then life is good,been retired now for 9 years and alll is well, just baby sit the grandson Colin, they call him the “little Ruger Dude..( gee I wonder why)Cool

dant

January 30, 2011
2:45 pm
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SHOOTIST357
Colorado Springs, CO

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OK, just some additional info —  I don't have many Palmer guns, so this was an eye opener for me.   I completely overhauled The two Palmer 715's I just bought.  The original owner told me they were always “tight” ever since he bought them.  I assumed once I cleaned them up and relubed them, all would be well….  Not so… Not to my DW standards…

Both of the guns have nice fit/finish, and sideplates are a very tight and perfect fit.  Literally had to pry these ones apart (several times…) All looked great inside, but both were VERY hard to cock even after I stripped / cleaned them. 

After a quick study, I determined the cylinders are fit so perfect, they are actually binding in the frame.  One of the guns will not cock on chamber 6 because it gets too tight (no barrel installed for cylinder testing). There is ZERO movement front/back at full lockup.

  I'm surprised these left the factory this way–your average gun owner would have had to send it back to the factory for better fitting.  Good news is I do my own fitting, so no worries….some day I'll reduce the cylinder length a little bit and get it running perfect.  I did a quick polish on the cylinder /crane and got it to turn on all six cylinders, but it is still too tight–maybe after I run a few hundred rounds through it will loosen up.

Anyway, here's some other info…  Both of the guns had heat damage to the side plates inside due to a dull end mill–internal machining is rough.

Image Enlarger

Image Enlarger

and just because I haven't shown it yet…. here is the best way to remove your ejection rod for crane cleaning… drill chuck will not slip at all, and empty cases support the star.

Image Enlarger

SHOOT

February 10, 2011
5:13 pm
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dustbusterplus
Texas
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Just curious,

 

I just took my Dan down all the way and was thinking about getting some reduced power springs.  I'm looking to improve the double action without sacrificing the shootability.  I shoot factory loaded stuff, mostly WWB and UMC.  What hammer springs do ya'll suggest from Wolff, 7.5lb or 8lb?  Do ya'll suggest the reduced trigger return spring as well?  If so, I will just go ahead and get the reduced Shooter's Pak.

March 16, 2011
3:04 pm
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Fritz
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Great post and pictures.  Have done the same to all my DW's.  Went one step further on one 15-2.  Polished the trigger and fly strut surfaces along with squaring them up.  The fly had a high spot that resulted in 20% contact between the two.  Probably 80% now.  Plan to see how the wear pattern looks and tweak more if necessary.  Don't think any improvement in feel, but the wear should be more even.

 

Unfortunately, in the process a little too agressive smoothing a sharp corner on the hand.  Now the cylinder does not quite lock up with a very slow trigger pull.  At normal speed, no problem. 

 

Anyone know where to get a new Hand?

March 16, 2011
9:05 pm
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Steve

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I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.

George Carlin

May 1, 2011
3:05 pm
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mister callan
Mid-Atlantic
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I just wanted to say thank you for this post,one of the best I've found for doing this kind of work to any firearm.worshipworshipworship

I finally completely stripped my 15-2 this weekend & gave it an real internal clean & slight lube, usually I limit myself to “only messing with things I understand” so I've been content with removing the grip, hosing with lots of “gun scrubber” re-lubing as best possible & calling it good. Chambers, bore & so on are regularly cleaned, but the guts of the thing was pretty intimidating to me.

 

Once I got in there I was absolutely blown away by the amount of gummy thick old oil & firing residue, some of which has probably been there for many years. After stripping, cleaning with a toothbrush, wiping all with an oily rag & re-assembling it's like a new trigger.wow

 

If you've never done this then read the first post a few times, print out 2 copies (one will be covered in oil & dirt when you're done) of it & go for it!

Matthew Quigley on handguns:

“I said I never had much use for one. Never said

I didn't know how to use it.”

May 1, 2011
5:44 pm
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Steve

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mister callan said:

I just wanted to say thank you for this post,one of the best I've found for doing this kind of work to any firearm.worshipworshipworship

I finally completely stripped my 15-2 this weekend & gave it an real internal clean & slight lube, usually I limit myself to “only messing with things I understand” so I've been content with removing the grip, hosing with lots of “gun scrubber” re-lubing as best possible & calling it good. Chambers, bore & so on are regularly cleaned, but the guts of the thing was pretty intimidating to me.

 

Once I got in there I was absolutely blown away by the amount of gummy thick old oil & firing residue, some of which has probably been there for many years. After stripping, cleaning with a toothbrush, wiping all with an oily rag & re-assembling it's like a new trigger.wow

 

If you've never done this then read the first post a few times, print out 2 copies (one will be covered in oil & dirt when you're done) of it & go for it!

These guns are 30+ years old and have often been buried in a safe or drawer for years. Just the cleaning yields such great results, you don't really have to do any of the stoning and honing in many cases. Even the faint of heart can do this.

I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.

George Carlin

May 4, 2011
11:13 am
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Gary J
Georgia
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Great tutorial! Thanks for taking the time to spell that out. It will come in handy.

May 28, 2011
6:35 pm
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Red Cent
McLeansville, NC
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Very good picture assisted tutorial on the DW.

 

I have been playing with the “its so ugly it looks cute and mean” 15-2 for a month or so. The 7.5 Wolf did not ensure ignition having  a couple of no fires. I dropped a “ball” a little smaller than the diameter of the grip lug hole in the hole and replaced everything. Fires every time. So far. The ball will not allow me to cock and fire single action. If I file down the stock screw that will reduce spring tension. The ball will go lower. Better minds can figure a way.

 

Food for thought. Use the ball as I did. Take a threaded screw with appropiate threads and screw it up in to the grip frame leaving room to for the grip screw to tighten the grip. Probably need to shorten that screw some. This could result in an adjustable hammer tension.

 

I also sguared the contact surface of the trigger and hammer strut and polished everything.

The challenge is to get the trigger spring, the hammer strut spring, and the main spring in harmony. Mine is used in competition so there is no life and death dependency. The hammer strut spring is the smallest number in the equation, the trigger return spring nexxt, and the mainspring.

 

I installed the “reduced power” return spring and, while installing the spring, did not notice the difference with my thumbnail.

Tinkering back and forth with the three springs has resulted in a (average of 10) DA pull weight of 8 lbs 10ozs . In competition, we use the DA only.

Take away that return spring and you lose 2#syell. I am purposing to examine a way I can return the trigger with  strategically placed coil spring. Have drill press will tinker. Could result in a set screw adjustable tension trigger return.

 

I’m a retired banker and have vision. However, I need the intricate minded people to figgerlaugh it out.

 

That is an EWK btw.

 

<img src="/forum/reloading/tuning-up-your-15-2-the-average-joe-method/page-3/[Image Can Not Be Found]Image Enlarger

” alt=”” width=”640″ height=”480″ />” alt=”” />

May 28, 2011
6:56 pm
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Red Cent
McLeansville, NC
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Would someone please look at this and tell me the model. I am familiar with my 15-2 only. I realize it says 44 but the internals are not the “basic” design of a 15-2.

 

Dan Wesson:

May 30, 2011
10:10 am
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Charger Fan
Northern Utah

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Red Cent said:

Would someone please look at this and tell me the model. I am familiar with my 15-2 only. I realize it says 44 but the internals are not the “basic” design of a 15-2.

 

Dan Wesson:

That's a large frame DW exploded view. It will include .41, .44 & .45, plus the four SuperMag guns.

 

Red Cent, I like your idea about the adjustable tension trigger return.occasion

Be yourself, everyone else is already taken.

May 30, 2011
9:08 pm
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Gary J
Georgia
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Thanks so much for that tutorial. Now for the Youtube video!

June 20, 2011
7:18 am
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warnerwh
Portland, Oregon
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I must also thank you for the tutorial. Also if someone wants to lighten the hammer spring you can clip a coil which is what I had in there since new. This gun is a Palmer 15-2 I bought in the early 90's. I put in the 7.5 Wolf spring and couldn't tell any difference. I never had any ignition problems with the clipped spring and this gun has fired many thousands of rounds. 

The action of this 15-2 is greatly improved. I was also able to get rid of the creep in this gun. I will do the same treatment to 2 Monson guns I have. I believe that your tutorial is the best post I've ever read on a forum.  Thanks again!

June 20, 2011
9:55 pm
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waltfraz
n.carolina
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Very nicely done!

September 11, 2011
12:05 am
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rwsem
SOWELA (Southwest Louisiana)

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Shoot's example of ejection rod removal is spot on; it simply unscrews: clamp knurled tip of ejector rod between wooden blocks in vise or PADDED locking-jaw pliers (or Shoot's chuck method). Insert two empty cartridge cases in opposite chambers, and use cases to unscrew cylinder from rod.

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

September 11, 2011
12:51 pm
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brucertx
North TX

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Thanks guys this is an excellent topic. I haven't had my 715 V6 all that long. Probably fried it on 5 or 6 occasions. Great accuracy, but seemed a bit “stiff”, if you know what I mean. So after reading the whole string, I started breaking it down. After removing the side plate from Hell, I had to have a couple of “just walk away Bruce” moments, my first thought was..”hmmm, lots of fiddly bits, I don't like fiddly bits”. It was pretty horrible inside. In fact, I'm pretty sure Jimmy Hoffa was in there somewhere.

I don't think the guy who had this before me, he got it new, did anything more than swab the barrel and cylinder. I'm now waitng for my EWK wrench to continue. Any special thoughts on working on a stainless model? The front of the cylinder is black with years of powder residue. I'm slowly making inroads, but it's pretty stubborn. There are also a few minor scratches I'd like to polish out on the exterior.

I've never owened a stainless piece before, so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Bruce

btw, GO BLUE!!Image Enlarger

To the paranoid people who check behind shower curtains for murderers:

if you find one...what's your plan?

 

 

 

 

 

 

September 11, 2011
10:51 pm
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rwsem
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Although, I shouldn’t even respond… I will.

Birchwood Casey Lead Remover and polishing cloth for carbon and then to blend any scratches, I use the Scotchbrite light grey pads.

 

Btw the best Wolverine includes 2 oz of Baccardi Limon Rum…

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

September 12, 2011
8:53 am
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brucertx
North TX

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Awww, man Ron, where's the love? lol

I've been using my bircwood Casey bore scrubber. I'll try the lead remover. Both you and my brother suggested a different grade Scotchbrite. I'll give it a whirl.

btw, the best corn corn is husked, boiled and served with butter…mmmm

To the paranoid people who check behind shower curtains for murderers:

if you find one...what's your plan?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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