The following is a list of Frequently Ask Questions:
Below is listing of acronyms and abbreviations used on the Dan Wesson Forum.
OUR SPECIAL ACRONYMS
DWCA=Dan Wesson Collectors Association
DWA=Dan Wesson Arms
DWF=Dan Wesson Forum
DWAS=Dan Wesson Acquisition Syndrome (uncontrollable buying)
DWFPS=Dan Wesson Forum Posting Syndrome (uncontrollable posting)
GTDW=Grand Theft Dan Wesson (a GREAT deal on a DW)
CRA=Corrosion Resistant Aficionado (stainless steel junkie)
S/V/H=Standard/Vent/Heavy shroud (followed by a number to denote length)
GENERAL PURPOSE POSTING ACRONYMS
BTW=By The Way
IMHO=In My Humble Opinion
IIRC=If I Recall Correctly
LOL=Laugh Out Loud
AFAIK=As Far As I Know
SOME ALL PURPOSE SHOOTING & AUCTION ACRONYMS
WTS=Want To Sell
WTB=Want To Buy
WTT=Want To Trade
SPF=Sold Pending Funds
NIB=New In Box (unfired except factory test, includes all accessories)
LNIB=Like New In Box (NIB in excellent condition, minimally fired)
RTKBA=Right To Keep and Bear Arms
IHMSA=International Handgun Metallic Silhouette Association
The question often arises about where one can purchase ammunition specifically for calibers offered in Dan Wesson revolvers. Below is a list that has been compiled by our members:
If you would like to add links to the list please visit this topic and submit your additions.
Specail thanks Supermagfan for providing the above links.
EWK Arms is providing excellent after-market tools and parts.
For custom grips contact LBruce Custom Grips.
Dan Wesson Firearms in Norwich, NY provide parts and service for all Dan Wesson Revolvers (Pork-Chops excluded). For parts contact Genny or Priscilla at 607.336.1174 ext 21 and for service or repairs contact Keith 607.336.1174 ext 24. Genny’s email address is email@example.com and Keith’s email address is firstname.lastname@example.org.
Here is a link to the most current price list.
Also instead of purchasing items from the CZ-USA \ Dan Wesson website I would suggest contacting the folks above directly.
The serial number data provided in the PDF below is based on information provided by members of the Dan Wesson Forum. No records are available from the various Dan Wesson companies, and we rely records/recollections of original purchasers, paperwork retained with the pistol, dated barrel wrappers, etc. to determine an approximate date of manufacture.
If you have information about your Dan Wesson that can be used to determine the approximate date of manufacture please complete the Serial Number Registry form.
Because of the Dan Wesson interchangeable barrel system, when the guns were sold, the barrel size and type was usually part of the model designation. Obviously this would change if the user changed the barrel, but it is still an interesting part of the Dan Wesson equation.
1). Standard barrels having the solid rib without the heavy underlug were usually designated by the barrel length alone.
For example, as per the information posted above, a 357 magnum with adjustable sights is a model 15.
The same gun with the standard 8” barrel becomes a model 15-8
2). Barrels with the vent rib get a V prefix.
So our model 15 with an 8” vent rib barrel becomes a model 15-V8
3). The Heavy Underlug adds an H to the designation
So a Heavy vent rib 8” equipped gun becomes a model 15-VH8
4). The slots cut on some of the silhouette shrouds add an S to the end.
The most common was the 357 Supermag model 40 (or 740 stainless)
So a model 740 stainless with the 8” vent rib and slotted shroud is a model 740-V8S
Yes, there were even some heavy underlug slotted guns (don’t know why)
So then a 740 vent rib, heavy underlug, slotted shroud gun is a model 740-VH8S
V = Vent Rib
H = Heavy Underlug
2,4,6,8,10,12,15 = barrel length (12″ and 15″ were only available for 357 magnum model 15 and 715)
S = Slotted Shroud
Also note the barrel length is the actual length of the barrel, from the forcing cone to the muzzle crown. The shroud length is obviously less because of the area the barrel screws through the frame.
This information was compiled form the website NotPurfect website.
Barrels in the dan Wesson are fairly easily changed. There are only two special tools required. The first is a barrel wrench which engages two notches in the barrel nut at the muzzle. The second is a feeler gauge, a sort of shim, which goes between the barrel and cylinder to set the gap. There are three types of barrel wrenches. The first is designed for the original pistols with the exposed barrel nut. it is essentially a hex wrench. The other two are designed for the new style with the recessed barrel nut. Current production barrel wrenches bear a resemblance to a door knob, while the older style looks a bit like an old time cork screw. The whole procedure is pretty simple, and only takes five minutes. Because I wanted to show some details, I may have made the process seem more time consuming than it actually is.
|In order to change a Dan Wesson barrel, you will need a barrel wrench, and a gap tool. You will only need one wrench. Of the two shown in this photo, one is for the 22, and the other is for the 357. The feeler gauge is the sliver of metal shown to the right of the photo. It is .006″. the Dan Wesson company emphasizes that you must use the feeler gauge when changing barrels.|
|Shown here is everything needed to change from a 6 inch barrel to a two inch barrel.|
|The barrel wrench shown alongside the muzzle. The two notches on the barrel nut mate with a pair of cams in the wrench. In the absence of a barrel wrench, I have used needle nose pliers to mate with the notches in the barrel nut, but I absolutely do not recommend this as it can tear up the nut.|
|Using the special tool, loosen and remove the barrel nut from the muzzle. They generally come out pretty easily, but occasionally some muscle will be required.|
|A view of the muzzle with the barrel nut removed. The powder seen inside of the shroud is from grease, put in at the factory when the gun was manufactured over 25 years ago.|
|After removing the barrel nut, pull the barrel shroud off of the barrel.|
|With the barrel shroud removed, it is a simple matter to unscrew the barrel tube from the frame.|
|A side view of the Dan Wesson medium revolver frame (22 version) with the barrel removed.|
|A front view of the medium revolver frame with the barrel removed. Those 22 caliber holes look pretty small in this 357 sized cylinder and frame.|
|Parts are scattered around the work area. Seen in the photo are shrouds, barrels, and barrel nuts for the 2.5, and 6 inch barrels, as well as the barrel wrench, and the feeler gauge. I am about to put the shorter barrel in place.|
|The first step is to screw in the new barrel tube.|
|Using the feeler gauge, adjust the barrel cylinder gap by snugging the barrel up against gauge.|
|The barrel is snugged up against the gauge as it is held in place against the cylinder. The barrel is tightened until it is resting on the gauge, but still lose enough to allow easy removal. The gauge is then withdrawn, as the gap is then properly set.|
|With the barrel properly installed, place the shroud over the barrel. It will line up with an index pin on the front of the frame.|
|Center, replace, and tighten the barrel nut.|
|Use the barrel wrench to recess, and tighten the nut. There should be not play in the nut or the barrel. Every few months it is a good idea to snug up the nut, and to use the feeler gauge to check the gap.|
|Sights may need some adjustment. This is easily done. The barrel tool also doubles as a sight tool.|
|I now have a 22 snub nose (with, admittedly, overly large grips) where I had formerly possessed a 22 target revolver with a six inch barrel. The Dan Wesson is a wonderful gun, and a remarkable design.|
|The large, hand filling target grips are great for accuracy, but do not do much for the concealability of the pistol, once the shorter barrel is in place. A single screw holds the grips in place, and it is easily removed, using the barrel tool.|
|The two inch Dan Wesson, awaiting a more appropriately sized set of grips.|
|Here is everything needed to change the grips. Note that these are all one piece grips, held in place with a single screw, shown below the frame.|
|After sliding the new grips over the nub at the bottom of the frame, the grips screw is slid in place, and then tightened with the barrel tool (also known, appropriately enough, as the combination tool).|
|The new grips, make the little two inch gun a bit easier to conceal, and more streamlined. They also are better proportioned to the shorter barrel.|
The information below is from a post on Greybeard Outdoors. I give full credit to DWTim for posting this information. Visit the Greybeard site to see the orginial post.
Photos are an integral part of the Dan Wesson Forum and key to documenting the many models and variations. We ask that you upload the photos you post here directly to the Dan Wesson Forum instead of Photobucket or another image host. By uploading your photos to the Dan Wesson Forum you ensure that the integrity of the topics and post that are created will stay intact.
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Navigate to the topic you wish to add an image to. This can be done by selecting the desired forum from the Select Forum drop down menu, the New / Recently Updated Topics drop down or from the forum list. The screenshot below shows the Select Forum drop down extended. (If you’re adding the image to an existing topic skip to Step 4)
To create a new post click Add Topic
To upload an image click the Attachments button circled below.
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Hopefully this makes sense. Please let me know if you need additional help!
If you have any questions please visit the topic.