Register
Log In
Home
March 9, 2011
Offline
I have a very nice .375SM that my father gave me. He is the original owner. It has only had a handful of rounds through it as he got out of silouhette shooting about the same time he acquired the pistol. I have about 150 IHSMA stamped, fired at least once, empty shells. I also have the original box, tools, manual, factory and pachmeyer grips, reloading dies, and case forming dies. The pistol itself is in 90%+ condition and is in need of a spacer on the cylinder. I dropped the spacer when cleaning the pistol and have not gotten around to replacing it.
I am not very good as a pistol shooter and really have no use for it. Although I did once shoot a five round group at 100yds that measured just over an inch off the bench.
I never added any scope or did anything to bugger up such a beautiful pistol. I just added the pachmeyers to get a grip on the thing.
If anyone can value this for me I would like to thank you in advance.
The only thing I really do know is the dies alone, new from redding, are around $350. Because they are special order...
thanks
March 9, 2011
Offline
I'm sorry. It is the 8 3/8" bbl, slotted, blued
January 22, 2008
Offline
I purchased a LNIB a year or so ago for $700 I believe. I would think the price on yours is somewhere in the $700 - $1000 range but hopefully someone that has been watching 375 prices closer than I have will share their opinion.
March 9, 2011
Offline
When I have some spare time I'll get everything together for some pictures.
March 9, 2011
Offline
Supporter
Moderators
January 24, 2009
Offline
stringcheese said:
The pistol itself is in 90%+ condition and is in need of a spacer on the cylinder. I dropped the spacer when cleaning the pistol and have not gotten around to replacing it.
I'm not sure I follow you here...which spacer on the cylinder? If the gun only has around 150 rounds through it, I can't imagine the need for a spacer. My .375 has many more than that...I'm not the original owner, but I can tell it's seen plenty of rounds...and there's no spacer. The dang thing shoots like a dream, too.
Anyway, from what I've seen on the auction sites, Jody's pretty much hit it with his estimate. With your brass & dies, you could probably get in the neighborhood of $900 for it, I would think. Now about this spacer thing...
February 11, 2010
Offline
Here's a diagram, can you point out the what number the spacer is ?
http://stevespages.com/ipb-dwesson-w44.html
-Blacktop
Supporter
Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
Offline
Maybe the yellow cylinder marker?
SHOOT
March 9, 2011
Offline
I looked at the diagram and where I thought I may have needed a bushing there is not one on the fish. I have heard these guns have a funny cylinder set up because of the adjustable gap.
I set my cylinder gap it by cocking then pushing the cylinder rear and measured gap. The pistol had always had spring pressure from the pawl on the cylinder pushing the cylinder forward. I thought it may have had a bushing near the #26 that I had perhaps lost?
March 9, 2011
Offline
Charger Fan said:
stringcheese said:
The pistol itself is in 90%+ condition and is in need of a spacer on the cylinder. I dropped the spacer when cleaning the pistol and have not gotten around to replacing it.
I'm not sure I follow you here…which spacer on the cylinder? If the gun only has around 150 rounds through it, I can't imagine the need for a spacer. My .375 has many more than that…I'm not the original owner, but I can tell it's seen plenty of rounds…and there's no spacer. The dang thing shoots like a dream, too.
Anyway, from what I've seen on the auction sites, Jody's pretty much hit it with his estimate. With your brass & dies, you could probably get in the neighborhood of $900 for it, I would think. Now about this spacer thing…
You should be able to tell it has not been shot much by the pictures.
It shoots better than I can. Maybe I just looked at it too hard and saw
a problem that does not exist, which is the most likely explanation!
lol
Supporter
Moderators
January 24, 2009
Offline
stringcheese said:
I set my cylinder gap it by cocking then pushing the cylinder rear and measured gap. The pistol had always had spring pressure from the pawl on the cylinder pushing the cylinder forward. I thought it may have had a bushing near the #26 that I had perhaps lost?
That's likely your problem then, the barrel/cylinder gap should be set with no preload on the cylinder...so hammer down in a relaxed state & no pressure rearward on the cylinder itself. Set the b/c gap from that point, rotating the cylinder so you find the tightest spot on the cylinder face (the face isn't completely flat), the set the gap at that point.
On a side note, regarding your dies...do you have one die in each box? Undoubtedly I have a later set of dies, but I received mine with all three in this box.
January 22, 2008
Offline
If you decided to sell the dies separate I would be interested. Very nice looking Dan you have!
May 17, 2010
Offline
Thats a beautiful gun!
As described your definately setting the gap too tight, which would cause the cylinder face to drag along the barrel.
https://www.danwessonforum.com/forum/reloading/barrelshroud-and-grip-removalreinstall-video
Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box
in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
March 9, 2011
Offline
Charger Fan said:
stringcheese said:
I set my cylinder gap it by cocking then pushing the cylinder rear and measured gap. The pistol had always had spring pressure from the pawl on the cylinder pushing the cylinder forward. I thought it may have had a bushing near the #26 that I had perhaps lost?
That's likely your problem then, the barrel/cylinder gap should be set with no preload on the cylinder…so hammer down in a relaxed state & no pressure rearward on the cylinder itself. Set the b/c gap from that point, rotating the cylinder so you find the tightest spot on the cylinder face (the face isn't completely flat), the set the gap at that point.
On a side note, regarding your dies…do you have one die in each box? Undoubtedly I have a later set of dies, but I received mine with all three in this box.
No, I have the set of three dies. Then a case trimming die and the case forming die for making my own brass out of 375 winchesters. 5 dies total, all 5 are different.
you can make brass out of 30-30's too. But I think the case wall is too thin in a 30-30
Supporter
Moderators
Dans Club
February 22, 2009
Offline
You are correct, although you can use 30-30s it's not advised. I bought my 375 SM w/ 2 boxes of IHMSA Bullets, 100 pieces of IHMSA Brass, three die Redding set, and a hardcase for $850 about 8 months ago.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
Dans Club
May 17, 2009
Offline
Info please: If I have 375 WIN cut down can I size these or do I have to run them through a forming die, which I don't have??
Supporter
Moderators
Dans Club
February 22, 2009
Offline
Trim and size, or size and trim- no neck reaming needed unless you want to deep seat a heavy, for caliber, bullet. I lube inside and out… Although I haven't used them- I believe 38_55 brass works as well.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
Dans Club
May 17, 2009
Offline
Thanks Ron,
It'll be awhile till I get to loading some.
Ed
Supporter
Moderators
January 24, 2009
Offline
stringcheese said:
No, I have the set of three dies. Then a case trimming die and the case forming die for making my own brass out of 375 winchesters. 5 dies total, all 5 are different.
you can make brass out of 30-30's too. But I think the case wall is too thin in a 30-30
Ok, thanks for explaining that. I didn't think about the forming & trimming dies.
I need to find some trimming dies for the .375 Win brass I currently have.
Jagg, if the weather would cooperate for a few days, I'd be able to test this batch of 100 (50 .375 Win & 50 .30-30) rounds I recently loaded, to see which holds up better. An empty IHMSA .375 is in the middle here just because. (sorry for the crappy pic)
I will agree with Ron though, these .375 SM dies really love lots of lube on their brass cases, no doubt about it!.
March 9, 2011
Offline
30-30 brass did not hold up when I was working up a load. Mine shot it's absolute best when on the raggady edge of being over pressured. I recommend just pulling the bullets on the 30-30 brass and sticking with the 375 brass.
1 Guest(s)
