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won't go bang, need advice
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dannyboy
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November 27, 2011 - 9:23 pm
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Just acquired a pistol pack (15-2). Couldn't tell if it had even been fired but could only have been used lightly. Cylinder had light turning marks but otherwise no visible wear. Even had the receipt from 1978, buckle and patch. Of course I put 200 rounds through it asap. Got it out last weekend though and it started acting up. At first the trigger didn't want to reset then the hammer wouldn't go to full cock. When I do get it to cock and fire, the trigger won't reset. Used the outstanding Average Joe tutorial to open it up and don't see any obvious snags or appreciable wear. Any advice on usual suspects or where to start would be appreciated.

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SHOOTIST357
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November 27, 2011 - 11:01 pm
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Congrats on a great find !!!  First thing I have to ask is if you lubed it up while you had it open...sounds like a lot of friction problems.

SHOOT

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Pinetor
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November 28, 2011 - 12:03 am
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Sounds to meet like too tight cylinder gap, or carbon buildup on the face of the cylinder.

 

Try this: gun unloaded

open the crane and swing out the cylinder.

dry fire the gun

if it operates fine, assume above and adjust and clean as needed

 

also make sure the cylinder spins freely on the crane.

Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box

in that order.

4 Monson Model 15's

1 Palmer FB 15

1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)

1 CZ 75B

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Blacktop
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November 28, 2011 - 11:17 am
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It started acting up after 200 rnds ?

 

Sounds like Pinetor has got you figured out.

 

goodluck

 

-Blacktop

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pops2
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November 28, 2011 - 6:58 pm
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FYI I once had a ruger 44 that I cleaned up the night brfore a shoot, stripped all the oil and gunk out of it and took it to athe shoot. was able to run 23 rounds thru it before it siezed up.screwy I forgot to lube it up after cleaning. finished the shoot in 2nd place with 23 knock downs. I won't leave home with out my WD40goodluck

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dannyboy
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November 28, 2011 - 9:41 pm
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Great advice guys. I have not lubed the internals and this sounds like a good place to start. This makes sense because when the cylinder is tipped out the problem persists and when the side plate is off it seems to alleviate the problem. I think I know what I'll be doing this evening. I see mention of WD40, any other sugestions on lubricant?

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Steve
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November 28, 2011 - 10:12 pm
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Did you change grips or tighten/loosen the grip screw between these two shooting sessions? Proper grip screw length and seating is pretty important with function in DW revolvers.

I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.

George Carlin

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lbruce
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November 29, 2011 - 8:02 am
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Firstwelcome to the dwf-sign. Sounds like lube is probably the ticket as well as always keep a check on cylinder gap and grip screw length.

I see mention of WD40, any other sugestions on lubricant?

 

A lot of guys swear by WD40 and a lot of guys swear at WD40. Just my opinion, WD 40 is a good cleaner and maintenance tool (as well as good quick start for diesel engines) but it evaporates and leaves little lubricant behind. I clean with WD40 but lube with different types of oil. 

 

Now for a little trivia. Who knows what the WD in WD40 stands for? And no googling it! wink

LB

Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.

                                                                                                                             

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brucertx
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November 29, 2011 - 8:59 am
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I believe one of it's original claims to fame was water displacement, hence WD? Where does the 40 come from? 

I think I remember seeing a demo of a light bulb under water after the whole thing had been liberally sprayed with WD40.

To the paranoid people who check behind shower curtains for murderers:

if you find one...what's your plan?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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lbruce
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November 29, 2011 - 2:10 pm
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Ding Ding we have a winner!!! occasion

Water Displacement, the 40 is for the 40 tries it took to get the formula right.

LB

Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.

                                                                                                                             

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dannyboy
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November 29, 2011 - 10:30 pm
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Spot on by Pinetor. It is a friction issue. Last night, took it all apart and cleaned out the inards. A little discoloration on the white cleaning cloth but no crudded up corners. Went at it with a frightening amount of Rem oil. The water displacer was used up on a frozen brake line connection on my truck Saturday. It's not the best penetrating oil but I like to remind myself in half can increments. The friction appears to be on the left side of the hand against the inside of the removable side plate. And interstingly enough when I tighten the side plate(top screw) a 1/4 turn too much the problem is immediately apparrent, even after the Rem oil. Now I've read a post regarding the grip screw affecting performance. I have switched out the grips (and barrels, currently eyeing the sights). What are the symptoms of a grip screw issue. Before I polish anything I would like to make sure I'm on track for weeding out operator error.

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Steve
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November 29, 2011 - 10:51 pm
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Overtight (or overlength) grip screws can extend too far into the mainspring seat and slightly displace the mainspring guide, causing erratic function. The easiest way to diagnose is to back off the grip screw when you are encountering light strikes or failure to stay cocked in single action. That grip screw does NOT have to be cranked in tight, tight, tight. Also, be aware that there are two different length grip screws for full size versus compact grips.

I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.

George Carlin

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Dave_Ks
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November 29, 2011 - 11:17 pm
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Welcome and looks like you will be back on the Range in no time!  

 

Keep us posted, well you could just box it up and send to Kansas!

 

poke

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SHOOTIST357
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November 30, 2011 - 9:11 am
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dannyboy said:

The friction appears to be on the left side of the hand against the inside of the removable side plate. And interstingly enough when I tighten the side plate(top screw) a 1/4 turn too much the problem is immediately apparrent, even after the Rem oil.

If this is the case, something is not together right.  Check to make sure everything is seated properly, especially the trigger return spring on its ledge.  Also check to make sure the hand is located properly.

SHOOT

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Pinetor
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November 30, 2011 - 9:17 am
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SHOOTIST357 said:

dannyboy said:

The friction appears to be on the left side of the hand against the inside of the removable side plate. And interstingly enough when I tighten the side plate(top screw) a 1/4 turn too much the problem is immediately apparrent, even after the Rem oil.

If this is the case, something is not together right.  Check to make sure everything is seated properly, especially the trigger return spring on its ledge.  Also check to make sure the hand is located properly.

SHOOT

 

Shoot is right. I have one 15-2 that the transfer bar likes to slide up on when putting back together. I use a dentist pick and gently apply tension to it via the opening from the hammer while placing the side cover back on. However, if the everything was not right when putting back together ( original post) then you probably would not have gotten 200 shots off prior to problems.

 

grip screw and cylinder gap still seem likely for the OP.

 

Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box

in that order.

4 Monson Model 15's

1 Palmer FB 15

1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)

1 CZ 75B

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lbruce
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November 30, 2011 - 10:09 am
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Random thought, check the hand spring to see if it is in it's groove and not over the hand.

LB

Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.

                                                                                                                             

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dannyboy
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November 30, 2011 - 10:11 pm
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Credit where credit is due, looks like shootist357 noted the friction problem. And to Steve CT, what do you know, in one of the little envelopes there's a second grip screw... I believe that I have everything seated properly, I was sure to get the transfer bar spring to ride in the groove on the back of the hand and the return spring rests on it's groove and I don't think it's pushing the hand out of place. Carbon buildup is nonexistant and for cylinder gap, had to pick up the .006 gauge from EWK before it was fired to check that the barrel was properly installed. I'm going to look into the grip screw arrangement and make sure I've got everything settled into the right places. Friendly rebuff to my Kansas neighbor, I think I'll keep her on the bushwhacking side of the stateline... 

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Steve
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December 1, 2011 - 8:45 pm
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The cool thing is that we (the DWF Band of Brothers) can usually help people with DW problems, and make some friends at the same time.

I guess we're "big enough to help" and "small enough to try to help".

Steve

I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.

George Carlin

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dannyboy
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December 2, 2011 - 9:40 pm
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Thanks guys, I think my warm up session heated up some goo and then my less than astute cleaning and reassembly didn't help. On the bright side, I haven't broken anything and I've learned an awful lot. I am wondering what length grip screw I should have for the two grips. The two screws I have are the same length at 1.75". Funtioning fine now but am I waiting for a problem.

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Steve
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December 2, 2011 - 9:47 pm
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One other aspect of the grip screw length question is how deeply the grip screw hole in the grip has been inletted. Some people can crank that sucker down so tight that the screw hole depth gets changed a little bit.

I think the grip screw lengths are 1.75" and 1.5". Some grip screws were supplied with a "captured" washer that may have gotten lost over time.

I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.

George Carlin

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