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Dan Wesson Revolver Cleaning and Maintainence
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Rod Slinger
Indiana
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November 26, 2011 - 12:30 am
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On lubes and rust protection this is what I use. It may not be the best but it works for me.

For long term protection from rust (more than a year) I use Rig Grease. For short term I use Birchhwood Casey Sheath.

For metal to metal contact areas like the slide rails, I use Rig +p grease. For areas like the sear I use Break-free.

If I clean a gun with gun scrubber, I will spray it completely with Rig #2 so as to get lube back into areas gun scrubber removed. 

I know some of you us WD40 to protect your guns.  When I worked for Harvester I lost over $10,000 worth of gages  to WD40.  We sprayed the gages before going on a two week shutdown, when we returned the gages were rusted beyond repair.  This may have been a bad batch of WD40 or it may be better now.  For me it is like the cat that sit on a hot stove, not on my guns!

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mypak
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July 31, 2012 - 8:39 pm
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well I just couldn't help it...the toughest thing I have ever had to reassemble was a mkIII!!! I can't tell ya'll the number of diff. weapon systems I have delt with in service but the mkIII was the most irratable!!

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GunsandBikes
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January 17, 2013 - 9:10 pm
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Some of you are very brave, with your complete disassembly. Removing the sideplate last night, was enough for me. Any input on cleaning and lubricating that area, would be appreciated.

I am a firm believer in Ballistrol & Brian Eno's grease, which I found very effective on a Sig p226, the Ballistrol was less abrasive than the likes of Hoppes, hence the Ballistrol on a Nickel S&W.

Renaissance is very effective, in preserving a Gun's finish; they use it in Museums for preserving pricey antique firearms. Although it is pricey, it goes a long long way.

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rwsem
SOWELA (Southwest Louisiana)

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January 17, 2013 - 10:02 pm
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Grease the sliding parts, oil the rotational parts...  That's always been a "rule" for me.  Go lightly on the slide glide- some of my favortie stuff, next to lubriplate.

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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rwsem
SOWELA (Southwest Louisiana)

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May 10, 2015 - 10:18 am
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What's old is new....  I've been running low on cleaning patches for a while, went to cutting up a box of cotton rags, started using old t-shirts, socks, etc.  Contemplated going to Goodwill to purchase or ask for more tshirts/ cotton shirts.  Then last weekend, as I was reading up on BPCR loading for my new to me 45-70, I decided to peruse the chapter on cleaning.  Lo and behold, from out of the pages of a book written in the 40s, came the best, most cost effective, effective solution to my conundrum:

DSC01493.JPGImage Enlarger

Yep, those are tufts from cotton balls, lifted from the wife's cosmetic bag.  Seems the old timers (older than me) used cotton balls for superior cleaning of their rifles' bore.  Seems the unidirectional strands offer better durability than the flannel patches of the time.  So, I decided to give it a try.  You can get three 41 cal tufts out of one cotton ball and they strip the fouling and lead right out.  No more buying patches or cutting cotton shirts.  Thought you should know, in case you didn't.  Maybe I'm the late comer; who knows?

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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ese927
SHELBYVILLE, KENTUCKY
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May 10, 2015 - 11:39 am
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Great Idea. I thought of it before, but then didn't use them because I was afraid they would leave lint or strands behind.  That seemed like more of a job. Guess I should have given them a whirl. Thanks for going out the limb brother, this could be a plus for us all.

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"To preserve liberty, it is essential that the whole body of the people always possess arms and be taught alike, especially when young, how to use them."

Richard Henry Lee
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Charger Fan
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May 10, 2015 - 1:15 pm
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Huh, who woulda thunk? Sounds like I will need to try these out next time I'm cleaning. Thanks for the tip, Ron!occasion

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batman
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October 10, 2018 - 5:22 pm
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One crucial thing in addition to the above. After checking for loaded condition, wipe down the exterior with a damp rag to remove salt after being exposed to sweat. Especially, remove the grip to wipe down the frame covered by it. Do this as a minimum EVERY time. Wiping down with an oily rag does not remove it.  

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SkereD53
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April 29, 2022 - 12:42 am
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Seeing as the barrel is so easy to remove, has anyone made or used a bore guide ?  

Also, on a 15-2, is that longer side plate screw 4-40 thread ?.

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mister callan
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April 29, 2022 - 12:49 pm
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With water-based cleaners now a available I use a mop & wash & re use it instead of patches. cool

Matthew Quigley on handguns:

“I said I never had much use for one. Never said

I didn't know how to use it.”

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capt jack
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May 11, 2023 - 2:53 pm
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this is a great video on cleaning but the best video on 15-2 disassembly/ assembly

enjoy

Capt Jack

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Ole Dog
ocala, fl

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May 11, 2023 - 5:44 pm
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I started watching and he used a pliers on the barrel nut. Enough for me. Read "The Average Joe Tuneup". Use a barrel tool to remove the BA. The Dan Wesson is the Thinking Man's Revolver.Lots of unthinking men out there. But that is why there are so many nice used Dans out there. When they couldn't figure them out they went into a drawer for 40 years.

  Once you take a Dan apart and clean EVERYTHING a couple of times it is like riding a bicycle.  Never over tighten barrel nut or sideplate screws. And certainly not grip screws.

  I use Carnuba wax from the Auto parts store. Dextron and 30 weight  non detergent oil work well too. 

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capt jack
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May 11, 2023 - 8:21 pm
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i was also surprised using needle nose to remove barrel nut however, suggest you look at the video for a bit

he does a really good job showing disassembly / assembly

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Ole Dog
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May 11, 2023 - 8:29 pm
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Capt, I have totally disassembled and cleaned, polished, and reassembled many dozens of small frame Dans. I have built several guns from my parts stash and bare frames. Believe me, the tutorial on the Forum cannot be topped. Especially by a guy that uses pliers on a barrel nut. He was successful only because it was lose. JMHO. 

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Ole Dog
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May 11, 2023 - 8:56 pm
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So, I went back and listened to half of the video. He lost me again half way through when he said the gun was stainless. It is a blue 15-2 from years before they made stainless guns. It has an aftermarket hard chrome plating. I would not use bore solvent on the cylinder of a blue gun. I might be a little picky but so far he could have ruined a barrel nut and damaged the bluing on a blue cylinder. Almost past my bedtime so I will finish watching tomorrow. I didn't notice him removing the mainspring. It is in the grip tang retained by the long sideplate screw. If you want to put an 8lb Wolff spring in I use a cleaning rod with a hollow end to hold the spring and mainspring strut while I unscrew the sideplate screw. Otherwise spring and strut will fly across the room. 

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capt jack
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May 12, 2023 - 9:39 am
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Ole dog…always appreciate & learn from your comments

i just thought this was a well done instructional video on disassembly/ assembly

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Musicisevil
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May 12, 2023 - 12:32 pm
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Ole Dog said
So, I went back and listened to half of the video. He lost me again half way through when he said the gun was stainless. It is a blue 15-2 from years before they made stainless guns. It has an aftermarket hard chrome plating. I would not use bore solvent on the cylinder of a blue gun. I might be a little picky but so far he could have ruined a barrel nut and damaged the bluing on a blue cylinder. Almost past my bedtime so I will finish watching tomorrow. I didn't notice him removing the mainspring. It is in the grip tang retained by the long sideplate screw. If you want to put an 8lb Wolff spring in I use a cleaning rod with a hollow end to hold the spring and mainspring strut while I unscrew the sideplate screw. Otherwise spring and strut will fly across the room. 

  

Feel pretty ignorant asking, but here goes! What’s the best method for cleaning the cylinder on a rev with a blue finish?

My only other blue wheel gun is a WELL loved 60’s python I “liberated” from my dad, and I’ve just been cleaning its cylinder the same way as my stainless ones. Solvent patch, brush, repeatyell

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mister callan
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May 12, 2023 - 2:17 pm
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pretty much what I do. I do have a home-made (cut from an old coffee can plastic top) shield that clips in to protect the recoil shield if I mess  up. I also use a .40 cal brush on the chambers, it works much better on stubborn deposits than a 9mm/357 one.

Matthew Quigley on handguns:

“I said I never had much use for one. Never said

I didn't know how to use it.”

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KurtB
Pleasant Plains, Illinois
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May 12, 2023 - 2:27 pm
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I spray Ballistol into the barrel & chambers, let soak for several minutes, then bore snake it good. Easy peasy and clean as a whistle!

IMG_3745-1.jpeg

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Charger Fan
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May 13, 2023 - 12:59 am
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If you are shooting a bunch of .38SPL in your .357, that's the only reason you would need a brush, really. And even then, use a nylon brush, not a steel one. And yes, .40 cal is the perfect size brush. I try to only shoot the caliber the gun is chambered for, so I don't have to deal with carbon buildup. My cylinder cleaning method is to wet a patch with gun solvent, then spin it a few rotations through the first three holes, then another wet one for the final three. I use a dry patch to mop up any excess.

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