November 23, 2011
On lubes and rust protection this is what I use. It may not be the best but it works for me.
For long term protection from rust (more than a year) I use Rig Grease. For short term I use Birchhwood Casey Sheath.
For metal to metal contact areas like the slide rails, I use Rig +p grease. For areas like the sear I use Break-free.
If I clean a gun with gun scrubber, I will spray it completely with Rig #2 so as to get lube back into areas gun scrubber removed.
I know some of you us WD40 to protect your guns. When I worked for Harvester I lost over $10,000 worth of gages to WD40. We sprayed the gages before going on a two week shutdown, when we returned the gages were rusted beyond repair. This may have been a bad batch of WD40 or it may be better now. For me it is like the cat that sit on a hot stove, not on my guns!
July 26, 2012
January 16, 2013
Some of you are very brave, with your complete disassembly. Removing the sideplate last night, was enough for me. Any input on cleaning and lubricating that area, would be appreciated.
I am a firm believer in Ballistrol & Brian Eno’s grease, which I found very effective on a Sig p226, the Ballistrol was less abrasive than the likes of Hoppes, hence the Ballistrol on a Nickel S&W.
Renaissance is very effective, in preserving a Gun’s finish; they use it in Museums for preserving pricey antique firearms. Although it is pricey, it goes a long long way.
February 22, 2009
February 22, 2009
What’s old is new…. I’ve been running low on cleaning patches for a while, went to cutting up a box of cotton rags, started using old t-shirts, socks, etc. Contemplated going to Goodwill to purchase or ask for more tshirts/ cotton shirts. Then last weekend, as I was reading up on BPCR loading for my new to me 45-70, I decided to peruse the chapter on cleaning. Lo and behold, from out of the pages of a book written in the 40s, came the best, most cost effective, effective solution to my conundrum:
Yep, those are tufts from cotton balls, lifted from the wife’s cosmetic bag. Seems the old timers (older than me) used cotton balls for superior cleaning of their rifles’ bore. Seems the unidirectional strands offer better durability than the flannel patches of the time. So, I decided to give it a try. You can get three 41 cal tufts out of one cotton ball and they strip the fouling and lead right out. No more buying patches or cutting cotton shirts. Thought you should know, in case you didn’t. Maybe I’m the late comer; who knows?
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
April 18, 2014
Great Idea. I thought of it before, but then didn’t use them because I was afraid they would leave lint or strands behind. That seemed like more of a job. Guess I should have given them a whirl. Thanks for going out the limb brother, this could be a plus for us all.
Oath Keeper #021479 NRA #206814004
Member AAGSR Member AGA #83120600233
"To preserve liberty, it is essential that the whole body of the people always possess arms and be taught alike, especially when young, how to use them."
Richard Henry Lee
American Statesman, 1788
January 24, 2009
October 10, 2018
One crucial thing in addition to the above. After checking for loaded condition, wipe down the exterior with a damp rag to remove salt after being exposed to sweat. Especially, remove the grip to wipe down the frame covered by it. Do this as a minimum EVERY time. Wiping down with an oily rag does not remove it.
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