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August 20, 2019
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Do you guys with older revolvers buy spare parts when you see them cheap and in good shape just in case? I see triggers, hammers and other parts pretty cheap on ebay. My hammer is pretty worn and gouged and I spotted one that looks to be much less worn for $40 and a trigger along with it. It seems like folks are the parting guns out and making a lot more than they could get for the whole gun.
February 22, 2017
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Yes, I definitely think that there are those who are disassembling the guns & selling the parts. When you do the math, it appears that they get more money that way.
Jerry
6 Dans and counting...
August 20, 2019
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I ordered the hammer and trigger combo for $40. For half of what a tank of gas costs in my pick up, I don't know why not. It may help the DA problem I'm trying to fix. After following the Average Joe instructions I tore the gun down for a good cleaning and polishing and was amazed how easy it is to do. I've got Smiths I'm afraid to take the side plate off.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Not likely that the trigger or hammer are affecting the double action unless the sear was filed. What model do you have and what is the nature of the problem?
I speak for myself but my DWAS extends to grips, BAs, all parts and sights. I have built several guns out of bare frames and my stash of parts. In order for it to be worth doing you need a frame in great shape hopefully still with firing pin and dedent ball. Ditto a nice cylinder assembly.
August 20, 2019
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The gun is a '81 15-2 I recently bought. SA is fine. DA the hammer travels back normally until just before or usually just after the cylinder locks up. It then stops and requires much pressure to get past that point. This happens when trigger is pulled slowly DA. I'm not talking about "stacking".
If I pull the trigger more quickly it's not usually noticeable. It happens with the cylinder open or closed. I removed the grip screw and it made no difference. I took the gun apart to give it a deep cleaning and saw the bottom right edge of the hammer is worn and gouged apparently from rubbing the frame. This edge is not smooth but uneven as you may be able to see from the photos. There's a photo of where on the frame I think it's rubbing. I have to wonder what is allowing the hammer to be in a position to rub that edge? Maybe wear on the pin the hammer pivots on allows it to lean enough to rub? In that case possibly a shim at the base of the pin may help? It doesn't seem to be a normal wear point to a untrained eye. It shoots great SA but I'd like to get the DA right if possible.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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I don't believe that is the problem with the hard/ inconsistent trigger pull since the part of the trigger that shows wear is against the frame with nothing riding on it. A PO may have thought some filing would smooth things out- not certain. My bet would be spring related- maybe the mainspring...
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
August 20, 2019
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Next time I'm in there, I'll pull the mainspring and take a look. I should have done it last time. Other than broken, what should I be looking for with the mainspring? Thanks
February 16, 2016
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stonebuster said
Do you guys with older revolvers buy spare parts when you see them cheap and in good shape just in case?
Yep.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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The spring should have tight coils on each end and be about 2.5" long. If it's not, there's a chance a PO may have cut it in an attempt to lighten the trigger pull...
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
August 20, 2019
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rwsem said
I don't believe that is the problem with the hard/ inconsistent trigger pull since the part of the trigger that shows wear is against the frame with nothing riding on it. A PO may have thought some filing would smooth things out- not certain. My bet would be spring related- maybe the mainspring...
You were correct, sir. I finally just isolated the problem being the trigger return spring which the previous owner had installed. I bent the end of the trigger return spring slightly where it rides on the "ledge" of the trigger and it corrected the issue. Occasionally the trigger wouldn't return even after adjusting the over travel screw. It took a little trial and error but it's much better than it was and the problem has been isolated. It seems a whisker one way or the other makes a big difference. It was frustrating since the internals are so simple but in the end I remembered what you said about it being spring related. Thanks.
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February 22, 2009
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Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
September 28, 2008
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I bought spare parts over the last 40+ years since I bought my first 15-2 in 1977 and it had a clipped mainspring causing light primer strikes. At this point, I have at least 2 of every single internal part for a 15-2/715, along with a Stainless cylinder and yoke in great condition, and a blued and not so pretty sideplate. So all I would need to put together a functioning gun is a 15-2 frame.
Of all those parts I've bought, the only ones I ever used, other than for cosmetic reasons have been the hand spring, the mainspring, and the spring under the little ball bearing at the back of the cylinder. And a barrel I blew up due to a squib and my stupidity.
The sideplate I have in my drawer was battle scarred by a previous owner, so I took the nice one I had and put it on the gun, making the gun look basically almost new looking.
June 8, 2009
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I picked up a few spare parts when one of the big mail order places closed out their DW parts. Wish I'd started stashing them sooner.
For a while I was checking Gunbroker and it seemed there were odd lots of DW parts. Looked like police turn-ins where the frame was destroyed and the odd parts were pulled off?
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March 25, 2013
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The best thing you can do for a Dan is put in Wolff reduced power springs. The 8lb mainspring and the trigger return spring. The Wolff trigger return spring smooths the action. The 71/2 lb mainspring can result in light primer strikes.
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