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April 26, 2010
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Hi everyone. I am having an issue with my 15-2 which I just picked up. The cylinder is binding on it and it's catching on the back of the cartridge. One cylinder seems to be more prone than others but there's no buildup or anything in the cylinder which would cause the cartridge to not seat completely. It looks just like all the others. Is there anything I can do to fix this? Thanks!
April 26, 2010
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Ok....I just verified that it's not just one cylinder. Can it be the cylinder gap being too tight which would force it back a bit causing the case to drag?
January 22, 2008
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First welcome to the forum. I would certainly try resetting the cylinder gap first. If it's a Monson era gun you will need to check the gap on all 6 chambers as their can be some differences from one chamber to the next.
Also if you set it tighter than .006 you need to make sure you keep the front of the cylinder wiped down because when it gets dirty it can cause binding.
Hope this helps.
Jody
April 26, 2010
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Yes, it is a monson gun. I don't have anything to measure the gap with but it appears extremely tight, as in couldn't get a piece of copy paper in between it. Hard to tell with eyeballing it though. It also appears to be making contact while opening and closing the cyldiner. I will try getting a wrench and a shim gauge and see how it goes.
Thank you for the quick response!
January 22, 2008
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One of our members makes a very nice custom barrel wrench for the DWs and you can contact him by clicking in the link in the sidebar. You can go to your auto parts store and pick up a set of feeler gauges to set the gap.
Jody
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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Sounds like the gap is very tight, the EWK wrench is your best bet by far. Tear it down, clean it throughly, and begin enjoying DW life.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
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November 17, 2008
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Sounds like the guys covered all the questions so all that leaves me is 
. And OH yea, I get to do this. 
We are needy here! Welcome and good luck.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
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Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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It wouldn't hurt to look under the star also and make sure there isn't a piece of grit under there. Welcome to the forum !
SHOOT
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
February 28, 2009
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Well, everyone else beat me to the punch, so I'll just say welcome and don't forget to post those pics.
-Mike
April 25, 2010
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Inoticed a similar problem with my 44 which I traced to excessive cylinder end-shake. With the gap set at .004 (pushing the cylinder back) it was binding because the play was almost .005.
Ferd
April 26, 2010
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Ok, I'm still having this problem. I reset the gap to .004 and same issue...then I moved it to .006 just to be on the safe side. When using the gauge, should I be able to move it freely or should it drag a little bit when removing? I dunno but either way I'm not so sure that's the real problem.
The problem is as the cylinder is rotating, the back of the shell is hanging up on the frame causing it to bind. I can see scratch marks on the ends of the shells. When I lock up the gun, it locks up very tight (can't move the cylinder front to back at all, it feels like it's part of the frame). When it binds up I can still see daylight in the cylinder gap. I can see the wear on the frame where the shell is dragging and I'm pretty sure this is where it's binding up but I'm not 100% positive. There's no burr there or anything that I can see and there's no junk under the star. I just got his gun and I'm sort of dissapointed. Maybe this is why the person before me got it of it. I want to avoid bringing it to a gunsmith if I can because I'm pretty broke.
Any ideas?
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November 17, 2008
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I am no gunsmith but here is where I would look. I am assuming you have cleaned the gun thoroughly. First try it without the barrel at all just to completly eliminate gap issues. Then try one cartridge/ cylinder at a time to see if it is one cylinder or all. Then check the detent ball for wear or sticking. Completely disassemble the ejector assembly and clean. And last I would check the crane lock (although I don't believe that can be the problem but it can't hurt) and bolt for dirt and such. Of course you may have already done most or all of this, but good luck, and if none of this helps maybe some of the other guys will have more or better ideas.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
April 26, 2010
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I forgot to mention that If I tilt the barrel a bit upwards it makes the problem worse. I've tried some of what you said lbruce but I'm going to go over it all again just to make sure I haven't missed anything.
April 26, 2010
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Oh, and if I measure the cylinder gap with it locked up, it measures
tighter than when not locked up. So if I set the gap with it not locked up, when
locked up it is actually making contact with the barrel on a few cylinders and the actual gap is
non-existant. I think when the cylinder is rotating into the locked
position, this is when it's pushing up against the barrel, causing the
problem. Should I set the gap with it locked up instead? The instruction manual doesn't say to do that. I dunno.
Sorry for my ignorance when it comes to revolvers, I'm sort of new to them. Thanks!
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Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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Hard to diagnose over the internet, but you may have a bent yoke. Does your cylinder spin freely and balanced when you spin it with the cylinder open? Or does it wobble off center?
SHOOT
April 26, 2010
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The cylinder does spin freely. No wobbling or anything like that. I was concerned that it was off because 2 of the chambers are measuring a bit of a tigher gap which made me think it was off center or something. If it's off center, I can't tell because it looks fine when it spins. Also the gap seems to narrow at the top of the barrel rather than be uniform which also made me think that.
April 28, 2010
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rokemsokem, It's sounds to me like you have more than "one" issue going on with that revolver. It also sounds like someone has gotten into it before you got it and didn't know what they were doing possibly making things worse! I know you mentioned "no money" but I believe the best course of action you can take "before" you have an expensive paper weight is to find a "competent" gunsmith in your area who "knows" D/A revolvers and take it to him when you can afford it. In 44 + years of gunsmithing, I'de like to have a $20 bill for every gun that came across my bench that had already been turned into "scrap" steel. This revolver needs every step of "function" checked by a gunsmith who has that knowledge!................................Dick
February 2, 2009
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You might try to get in touch with heffronfirearmclassics , he works on DW's and he posts on here occasionally. Run the problem by him and see if he has any suggestions and if you do have to send it in, he's very reasonable and does quality work.
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DWF Supporters
November 21, 2009
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If I understand the original complaint correctly the cylinder is binding against the frame on the backside or rim side of cartridge? I have a fixed barrel DW that experienced the same issue and the solution was……… If you're prone to easily cringe, this would be a good time to go on to another post….anyways our solution was to press the cylinder forward on the crane untill the desired barrel gap and clearance on the backside of the cartridge were both obtained. In this case, thru much alcohol induced discussion with confidents, we were able to determine the cylinder is a press fit and had relocated due to age and pressure. This firearm has since had many rounds fired thru without issue. That is not to say in the case of this thread that excessive wear could not also be contributing; which would require a bit more than what I suggest.
April 26, 2010
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After messing with it for a while, I'm thikning that it's caused by endshake but I'm still not 100% sure. I can get it to bind up on the same part of the cylinder if I put pressure on the back of the cylinder and rotate it, even with the gap set at .006 on that same chamber. I guess the only solution is to have a gunsmith shim it or something? It only seems to be catching on 2 of the chambers which also makes me wonder.
The shake doesn't happen until I rotate it to those 2 chambers....then I can barely hear the face of the cylinder clack up against the barrel when I put pressure on it. Shouldn't it either shake or not shake and have the same amount? When I lock it up, there's no shake at all...it's tight as a tick. I think I would have to set the gap too wide to prevent it from happening so I'm stuck until I can get someone to look at it for me. I'm lost....
Other than that, the gun shoots great and it's in great condition. Very accurate. It looks like whoever had it before me didn't use it much. It would be hard to use since I can't shoot more than a few rounds without messing with the cylinder to get it to index. Maybe I'm wrong and it's something else. I dunno.
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