January 5, 2026
OfflineI recently inherited a Monson 15-2 with a 6" vented barrel. The last time I pulled it out to show it off, I noticed the barrel is slightly loose. I have never shot it, and I know it was over 20 years since it was last shot. I don't know anything mechanically about this specific gun, but I am pretty competent when it comes to working with my hands and have done some smithing on other guns. If this is most likely just a loose barrel nut, can someone point me in the direction of a full stripping tutorial?
February 16, 2016
OfflineSee the Average Joe Tuneup thread in the Gunsmithing section.
https://www.danwessonforum.com/forum/reloading/tuning-up-your-15-2-the-average-joe-method/
. Mtn Man, your in big trouble now. Once you learn that Dan Wessons don't need a gunsmith for just about anything you will get DW Fever and Dan Wesson Acquisition Syndrome, or DWAS.
They are the Thinking Man's gun. No point and shoot like a Smith or Colt. Superb accuracy and the ability to change barrel lengths and grip shapes in minutes.
January 5, 2026
Offlinemister callan said
You can use any accurate feeler gauge you like. I was just checking that you were aware of the need for one & why.
I have to say that I was not aware of the need, nor why. Again, I didn't see the use of one in the tutorial. Could you point me to where I'll need it?
That's why it's the THINKING MAN'S GUN. You must set the barrel /cylinder gap when you change barrels or clean thoroughly. Too big and the gun spits propellent and you lose power. Too small and it can bind the cylinder as the face of the cylinder gets dirty and the cylinder expands as it gets hot.
The barrel is held under tension from both ends. Frame and muzzle nut. It is one reason for the incredible accuracy. The tightness of the barrel nut can affect accuracy. When measuring the gap with a shim do not force the shim in. It will push the cylinder back on the dedent ball and give you too small a gap.
January 5, 2026
OfflineIs this .006 gap the reason my barrel shroud moves slightly? If I tear it down and reassemble it, is it still going to do the same thing?
I've never had a barrel shroud that was separate from the barrel before, so it makes me a little nervous. It feels like the barrel has about 1 degree of play, but it's most likely the shroud moving around the outside.
Disabuse yourself of the notion the barrel gap has anything to do with the shroud being loose. Do not shoot your gun until you have a barrel tool and play with setting the gap and screwing in the nut until it is snug. Do not overtighten. Snug is fine. There will be no play in the shroud. The barrel will be tightened at both ends like a guitar string. Properly snug, the nut will not come loose. If the shroud or barrel still moves there is a very serious problem. A barrel can not stretch the way a guitar string does. When setting the gap the appropriate shim(it doesn't have to be 6 thousandths) should not be forced in. That will push the cylinder back against the dedent ball in the center of the recoil shield and when the shim is pulled out the gap will be smaller. Perhaps too small. All my small frame guns are happy with a .004 gap. If it spits propellant make the gap smaller, if the cylinder rubs the forcing cone make the gap larger. Take a rag and an unused pencil with you to the range. Wipe the cylinder face with the rag every several cylinder loads and use the eraser end of the pencil to push stuck cases out while you hold the cylinder to keep it from jamming against the little nub on the sideplate behind the cylinder. That is called the cylinder stop in DW lingo. It can break off from pounding on the ejector rod or the rod can bend. S&W calls the piece that slides into the slots of the cylinder a cylinder stop. DW calls that the bolt.
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