zoommb said:

Here's an issue I found with Hogue Monogrips.  As many of you know I recently bought two 7414's.  Both came with rubber Hoque Monogrips. When I received the first gun I took it apart to clean it and install a Tulipwood grip that I had purchased.  When I removed the rubber grip, I was surprised to see a small area of black corrosion. No, it was not rubber that had peeled off of the grip.  It took a little effort but I successfully cleaned it up without damaging the finish of the gun.

Enter the second 7414 about five weeks later, also with a Hogue Monogrip.  I decided to remove the grip on this one because of what I experienced with the first one.  This one was much worse.  There were several quite large areas of the black corrosion.  I believe that this particular phenomenon is referred mto as oxygen starvation corrosion.  Again, I was able to restore the finish, but with much more work.

So, this is just a heads-up.  If you have a gun with a Hogue Monogrip that has been installed for a very long time, you might want to remove it to check for, and/or repair corrosion.

-Mike

 

 
Mike, your description is quite detailed, except for exactly where was the black corrosion?  Was it on the end of the metal area the grip bolt threads into???  or was it where the rubber grip touches the stainless steel body???

Now, since I'm a Quality Control Inspector at a Nuclear plant I would like to provide some input to the stainless steel world.  We use stainless steel in many systems here at work, and of course have found it's vulnerabilities.  Chlorides can attack stainless steel in the metal grain structure.  We have a phenomenon called Inter-granular Stress Corrosion Cracking (IGSCC).  This is what happens to stainless steel piping if not controlled.  Chlorides attack the grain structure, and while containing radioactive fluid with great amounts of heat and cyclic loading (hot and cold, and mechanical loads) the attacked grains start to tear.  I've personally seen this in pipe that was heat traced.  The heat tracing wires had chlorides in them and so did the tape, and being covered with insulation you couldn't see the damage until it started leaking.  By then, we had to rip the pipes out and replace them.

So, keep your chlorides away from your stainless steel firearms.

Hope you enjoyed the description.

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That is the area that gets the most grip to stainless steel contact.  Those 7414s are considered large frame right?  The grip shaft is round I'm guessing and the grip has a square hole?  I've never seen a 7414, but I do have a 745 and 744. 

At work, we use demineralized water to wash off any chemical we use that has chlorides.  For example, Liquid Penetrant testing uses chemicals with chlorides, our last step is to wash the effected area with demineralized water.

Rubber and plasitcs are good canditates for containing chlorides.  Think of PVC, polyvinyl chloride.  We use chloride free magic markers and chloride free duct tape also.  It's a big deal.

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Mike,

Thanks for the clarification on the grip holes and large frame confirmation.  Maybe someday I'll get one. 

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Charger Fan said:

 BTW, rubber will do a similar thing to cement...like a new car tire parked on a garage floor for a year without moving. That mark doesn't come off until enough decades have passed.

That's called a burnout!!!     Actually I didn't know that.

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