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January 9, 2011
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My 358429 bullet (very good shooter in my S&W 586) is just a little too long to shoot in the DW crimped in the groove with 357 brass. It does OK with 38spl brass but I hate scraping cylinders. Anybody shooting this bullet crimped over the front driving band (setback issues?) or trimming their 357 brass?
I am hoping that the new Ranch Dog 190gr mold will work in the DW.
February 11, 2010
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I'm not a reloader, so I can't help. But I have a question... are you saying the
S&W has a longer cylinder ? I have a 586 and never noticed it before.
-Blacktop
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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I've never crimped over the driving band but I suppose you can do it. I believe a taper crimp would be best in this case. It's worth a try at least. My thought being if you crimped over the band, it may change the diameter as it comes out of the case and may lead to some leading of the throat.
The throat area of my 715 cylinder is .385 long and all of my boolits have noses shorter than that. I would assume that's pretty close to standard for DWs; S&W tend to have longer throats.
The 190 RD is pretty heavy for caliber. How long is the boolit? If I remember correctly, DWs have a 1:12 barrel. That will stabilize to 1.59", most .358 heavies are approaching .80" so you should be OK; if you can get it in the cylinder. I'm going to guess the nose length may be a factor there as well.
Let us know how things go.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
January 9, 2011
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Side by side, the cylinders are about the same length. The recess is what makes just enough difference to hang things up.
I just looked at the drawings for the RD bullet mold and it is even longer above the crimp groove than the 358429 so I guess that isn't going to work either unless I load it in 38 brass.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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If you have a caliper, put a fired case in the cylinder and measure from the front of the cylinder to the rim of the case. That will give you a max nose length.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
December 31, 2010
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Hi guys,
Just got back from the first trip to the range with a Monson Model 15-2 and shot the 358429, crimped in the crimp groove. No problems or cylinder lockup, although there is not a ton of clearance.
It's a NOE mould so the crimp groove is different than the Lyman so that may matter but I don't know for sure.
With an OAL of 1.620 it all works out Although makes sure that the crimp is in the groove and not on the edge of driving band.
Pete
Dan Wesson 15-2
Taurus 66SS6
Taurus M85BUL
Ruger 22/45
http://357shooter.blogspot.com/
December 31, 2010
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Hey Kelbro,
How you doing, didn't see it was you!
Pete
Dan Wesson 15-2
Taurus 66SS6
Taurus M85BUL
Ruger 22/45
http://357shooter.blogspot.com/
January 9, 2011
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Yep, that's me. i think my driving band may be a little too thick. Going to try with some brass that's been trimmed to 1.28 and see how it fits.
June 8, 2009
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I cast and load this bullet. For years I did just fine with it. The bullet just barely fit. Then I'd adjusted my dies for another bullet and when I went back to the 429 I got a couple of jams. I stated to load them deeper and crimp over the front band to avoid the "every now and then" jams. Never liked how it looked that way. I don't load for max. so the extra depth didn't hurt. I thought about buying a different mold but I may just use 38 brass instead and go to lighter powder loadings in the Dan and use it for enjoyment and save the heavy loads for other guns.
I had the Dan rebuilt by DW and if I don't hot rod it I'm sure it'll last the rest of my life.
December 21, 2009
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prgallo said:
Hi guys,
Just got back from the first trip to the range with a Monson Model 15-2 and shot the 358429, crimped in the crimp groove. No problems or cylinder lockup, although there is not a ton of clearance.
It's a NOE mould so the crimp groove is different than the Lyman so that may matter but I don't know for sure.
With an OAL of 1.620 it all works out Although makes sure that the crimp is in the groove and not on the edge of driving band.
Pete
Since your talking about a NOE mold I assume you are over on the cast boolits forum. In that case you might want to consider the milhec 359640PB-HP that is being re-run right now. I have that one from an earlier run and it is a great bullet for my dan wesson. Very accurate in my gun with 14.4 grains of 2400, and no issues with it fitting in the cylinder when seated at the top crimp groove. Mine cast right at 160gr for the round pins, 163 for the five sided pins and about 173 for the solids. I wanted to try it on a deer this year but didn't manage to get in range while I had it with me this year.
December 31, 2010
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Thanks, I was looking at it. I just bought the NOE 145 SWC and 200 SWC and am working up some loads for them. I think the 145 is "similar" to the 640, although it's a SWC and the 640 isn't. Tried a 140 LBT but like the 145 NOE much better.
Dan Wesson 15-2
Taurus 66SS6
Taurus M85BUL
Ruger 22/45
http://357shooter.blogspot.com/
December 21, 2009
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prgallo said:
Thanks, I was looking at it. I just bought the NOE 145 SWC and 200 SWC and am working up some loads for them. I think the 145 is "similar" to the 640, although it's a SWC and the 640 isn't. Tried a 140 LBT but like the 145 NOE much better.
I picked up a 200gr NOE SWC too but I haven't had a chance to do much load development yet for that one since i got it fairly recently.
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