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August 3, 2009
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Hey guys I took my revolver out shooting the other day and I had some problems it worked fine for the first ten shots but after that I would go to pull the trigger and the hammer won't go all the way and the trigger is very hard to pull so it won't fire. Then One time the trigger did not come forward it was stuck in the back position and the hammer would not budge.
If I try it in SA sometimes the hammer is very very hard to pull back and sometimes after I fire a shot the trigger will get stuck and not return.
I have cleaned it several times and it was very clean when I took it out.
I have not taken it apart or anything the most I have done is cleaned it.
any ideas would be great
thanks
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
February 9, 2009
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Is the barrell cylinder gap set correct? It is possible the cylinder is dragging the forcing cone of the barrel if it is too tight.
A man cannot have too many SuperMags
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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dude- Welcome to Dan Wesson Forum, when you have a chance please visit our New Members forum and tell us a little about yourself, and your Dan.
Supermagfan has identified a likely cause. Is this a new problem with your Dan Wesson, or is the Dan Wesson new to you?
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
June 3, 2009
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Welcome to the forum. The guys here have helped me with a number is similar issues over the past month or so, and now my Model 15 works great - 200 rounds last Saturday with no issues or problems.
In no particular order:
Hammer refusing to come right back and stay cocked in single or double action:
1. Check that handle retaining screw is not in too far, preventing the hammer from reaching full cock. this can happen if you have recently changed grips for example, as it did with mine.
2. As Supermagfan said, this is the most likely cause of your problem - Binding between cylinder face and back of barrel when hot. To check if this is the case, open the action and look at the face of the cylinder to see if there are any rub marks. This indicates rubbing when hot. My 15-2 had every problem you describe. The cylinder face on mine was out of square, causing me to do a fair bit of fitting to remove the high rubbing spots. However, as a first step, try setting the cylinder / barrel gap at .004" when cold. It will close up about .0025" when hot. Accuracy remains good, as does clearance and rotation of the cylinder. If it still drags and rubs, you may have an out of square cylinder face issue, but probably not (let's hope).
3. Trigger sticking back can be the trigger overtravel adjustment being set too far in allowing overtravel, or old oil / grease in a dirty action. I adjusted the trigger overtravel so that no part of the actual trigger touches the frame or trigger guard, only the adjustment screw. Also stripped out the revolver, scrubbed everything and relubed. Solved the problem.
I reckon a good clean up with the side plate off is a good idea at least every 500 rounds or monthly, whichever comes first for you. I strip my revolver down to its component pieces and remove lead fouling, dust, burnt powder etc from everything, degrease with a soft copper brush, let everything dry then lube the internals with teflon powder. Then I wipe down the outside with a clean cloth soaked in teflon oil. Teflon oil is also pulled through the barrel. I have chosen 500 rounds as that is also when I do my reloading, case trimming etc - so I miss a week at the club and sort everything out for the coming month.
Hope this helps, let me know if you want any information on how to square up your cylinder face if you reckon that's the problem.
Cheers
John
Model 15-2V 6" Blued
August 3, 2009
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The revolver is new to me I bought it used at a store in town, This is my first handgun so I am new to all of this, that is why I am kind of worried about taking it apart myself (but I want to learn how to do it as well) I have heard stories of people not knowing what they were doing and they take it apart and pieces go flying all over the place. That is why I have not tried it.
is there a place that will show me how to properly take the side plate off and clean the insides?
as to the cylinder face issue I need to try that but when I bought the revolver it did not come with anything. Where do I get a tool to set the barrel/ cylinder gap?
Ill check the handle retaining screw but I have not change the grips but I think that they are after market grips they are black rubber grips and not wood.
thanks for all the info
DWF Supporters
Dans Club
Moderators
November 17, 2008
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Dude you are in luck because a DW M15 is probably the easiest revolver there is to work on. Check out the FAQ section on the right side of the screen for user manuals and part breakdowns. Barrel tools can be bought from DW/CZ, EBay, or Gun-broker and other auction sites. Plus you will find plenty of help right here as you have questions. I thought I knew a lot about DWs until I found this place and I have learned so much in the last 8 to 10 months or so it's scary. Just take your time and be careful and all will work out.
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
July 31, 2009
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Cylinder gap was my first thought as well. Good to know the grip screw will cause that - it's the same with the Encore's, you might have saved me a little agrivation with your question OP - TNX!
February 20, 2008
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Check the spark plug gap, then put it in the dishwasher to clean it up................
ONLY KIDDING~!
Welcome and best of luck.
If you're going to drink, don't drive. Don't even putt.
Range Officers
February 25, 2009
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photohause said:
Check the spark plug gap, then put it in the dishwasher to clean it up…………….
Now that's funny!!
Welcome dude8792!
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