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July 18, 2008
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It seems the gun I picked up awhile back has some more wear than I initially noticed when I bought it a few weeks ago.
I have a question about setting the cylinder gap on my .44... Currently the face of the cylinder rests on the back of the forcing cone. The spring pressure from the ejector mechanism I assume..? If I slide the cylinder back I have approximately .010" gap. Should the ring infront of the cylinder keep the cylinder from moving.(front to back?) First revovler I have owned, just want to know if its in need of repairs or if thats normal with all revolvers?? Just wondering if there are replacement bushings for the crane/cylinder shaft or should I just tighten up the barrel gap to around .005"-,006"?
January 22, 2008
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I have seen some bushing kits on ebay from time to time that might help the play in the cylinder.
If I'm not mistaken the Dan Wesson owners manual recommends a barrel / Cylinder gap of .006 so .01 is way to wide.
If it were me I would set the gap first before worring about bushings. Let use know what you end up doing.
Jody
January 22, 2008
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The cylinder should not rest on the forcing cone. When you set the gap at .006 how much more can the cylinder be forced back?
All my DW's do not move, if I set the gap on the tight side the shim will get stuck in between the cylinder and the forcing cone. It sounds like your gun is in need of some work. The factory or any qualified gunsmith can do it if you are not comfortable doing the work yourself.
Top left of this forum it says "New Articles Added" click on it and then click on and read "A Massive New Dan Wesson .44" it has some really good information in it.
Dave
February 14, 2008
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Some play is normal, .006" gap is the normal BC gap clearance but it sounds as if yours has too much slop in the cylinder.
Try this. Unload the revolver. Check it again to make sure its unloaded. Now close the cylinder, cock the hammer, and while keeping the trigger pulled all the way to the rear, use your thumb to gently lower the hammer. Keep the trigger pulled and see if there is any play either backward and forward in the cylinder. Check to see if there is any rotational play in the cylinder. A minimal amount of either is acceptable but the key word is minimal. Check all 6 cylinders the same way. They should all be the same, if one or two are greater or lesser it indicates a problem.
When you hear the term "Locks up tight as a bank vault, that is what they are referring to and basically shows there is no wear present.
If you have a dowel approximately the same size as the barrel, try pushing it down the barrel and see if it lines up with each cylinder. A misaligned cylinder will shave lead and ruin the forcing cone.
Open the cylinder and put a strong light on the forcing cone. Look for cracks, uneven wear, leading or other indicators that the bullet is not properly entering the barrel.
I suspect you have excessive wear in the gun to allow this movement. You should be able to set the gap at .006 and it should stay there. Obviously, with recoil, they cylinder is going to want to move backwards and if you have an additional ten thousandths gap there you are going to get lead shavings and blast coming out of the cylinder/barrel gap. Not good.
Keep us informed on how this turns out
Dan R
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