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DW .357 SuperMag help
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bdlyman
WY
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June 27, 2011 - 12:29 pm
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I bought a DW .357 SuperMag this weekend. It is an older model from the Monson plant. The revolver is in excellent shape and appears to hardly been fired. Today as I was cleaning it up, I noticed that the cylinder gap is uneven on it. the top of the gap is nearly closed while the bottom is gapped. Is the barrel not square? Is this a huge problem? Did I make a big mistake when I bought this? I haven't fired it yet, and now I'm a pretty leery about doing so. I'm afraid I may have made mistake and should have passed this revolver up. Any help would be great.

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Jody
Salem, Virginia
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June 27, 2011 - 1:52 pm
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First welcome to the forum!  We hope you find the site informative and entertaining!

 

Now lets discuss your issue.  Due to the way the cylinders were manufactured during the Monson years the cylinder face can vary so you want to set the gap to .002 on the tightest chamber.  If you don't have a wrench you can purchase one from EWK.  Also if you are new to the 357 SuperMag you will not want to shoot bullets weighing less than 158 grains I personally stick with 180gr or above.

You didn't make a mistake by purchasing it... It will be good to go once you check the gap.

Hope this helps.

 
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95XL883
Overland Park, KS
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June 27, 2011 - 3:08 pm
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Hi there and welcome to the forum.  Congrats on your model 40.  Dan's are so stout it is hard to think of buying one being a mistake.  Some may need some work or some tuning, but parts are generally available and everyone here is willing to share their knowledge to help you get it working right.  Pics of the condition will help everyone see what you are asking.  

 

Maybe my experience will help.  I bought my 357SM about eight weeks ago and quickly discovered it had endured a ham-handed owner who didn't know what he was doing.  I studied the SuperMag disassembly thread, the Average Joe 15-2 tuning thread and the cleaning you Dan thread.  I printed all of them and the parts diagram, http://stevespages.com/pdf/danwesson_large-frame.pdf, put them in a binder, set up a work area, forbid everybody else from the room and started in.  I work slow and am busy at work so I just got it together last night.  I just got back from the gunsmith who pronounced it safe to fire in single action, to not do double action until I installed a new hand and warned me to double up on the hearing protection (with a big grin on his face).  

 

My point is they are not hard to work on, just set up a space, do your homework and take your time.  (Note the factory will send some parts like a trigger, hammer and cylinder only to a FFL so you may need to locate one to accept the parts for you.  Mine does it no charge.)

 

This is the first revolver and only the second gun that I have dis-assembled.  I replaced the hammer, the trigger, the front sight and all of the springs.  (If you get into those parts you will probably have to do some polishing, I avoided stones, and used 2500 grit on the curved surfaces.  I took as little off as possible.  I went for smooth, not shiny.  The gunsmith warned me that it is easy to ruin a part by taking too much off.  At best they wear faster than they should, at worst, an air pocket is exposed and can't be used.)  It's not hard.  I like to think of it as a 3-D metal jigsaw puzzle that is more fun when it's finished.

 

You'll do fine.  Post up some pics, please.  

 

I am really pumped about this weekend.  I firing it in single action mode and it is going to be a blast.  range-time  I'll order the new hand but I'm not waiting for it.  I bought mine to hunt with, so no biggie to me if I can't do double action yet.

 

You didn't make a mistake!  You just gave it a good home!

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bdlyman
WY
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June 27, 2011 - 4:31 pm
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Thanks for the help. I probably jumped to conclusions a little. I looked at it more carefully and it appears that its not the barrel, but the cylinder face is not quite true as was stated. I noticed  that the very outside edge of the cylinder is dragging a little on one side of the barrel. It seems like the very outside edge on 1/3 to 1/2 of the cylinder is a little too long.  I'll try to get some pics up tonight. the Revolver is pretty cherry, I doubt a box of shells has been through it.

In your opinion, would it be worth having the cylinder trued by a gunsmith? Or is it just better to set the gap and go for it?

I have brass on order that is supposed to be here Thursday. I'm actually planning only to use 180 grainers with it as I hope that will help keep the gas cutting in check.

Thanks for the quick response and all the info!!

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DakotaJack
SD
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June 27, 2011 - 5:19 pm
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bdlyman - I would be inclined to say set the gap and go with it.  You would have to get a measurement of the cylinder width on each side of the chamber to really tell if it's in the cylinder or not.  The cylinder is also rotating on the crane assy., and if the crane arm is not perfectly parallel with the bore it could tilt the cylinder as well.  The cost of trying to square up a cylinder could exceed the cost or value of the gun and may not even be possible depending on where the problem is, if there is a problem.  I'd set the gap at .002 and go shoot the gun.  If it shoots to your satisfaction and  and it still bothers you, then don't look at the gap. 

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wdelack
Blacksburg, VA.
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June 27, 2011 - 5:38 pm
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Try putting the gun in lockup and look at the gap.  Lockup is, be sure the gun is not loaded, draw the hammer all the way back, hold your thumb on the hammer, squeeze the trigger and - with your thumb still on the hammer - ease the hammer all the way forward, then remove your thumb.  While still holding the trigger check the cylinder to barrel gap.   Also check forward and rearward movement of the cylinder.  There will be some movement but it should not be real loose.  You may want to repeat this for all six positions of the cylinder.

 

-Wayne

3PPCLined.jpg

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robhof
Ky
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June 27, 2011 - 9:18 pm
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Welcome aboard and you've got a great gun.  I've had mine (also a Monson) since 1992 and it's had hundreds of rounds through it.  I just sent it to DW a few years ago for a thorough tune up, but it was still shooting great groups before I sent it.  It had some end shake and some wear from years of use.  I have minimal flame cutting on mine and was told by a DW smith that as long as I use heavy bullets 170+gr that it'll last a very long time.  I use 200gr cast LFN's and have taken deer out to 75yds and can ring the gong at 200yds at our outdoor range consistantly.post-picswelcome

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lbruce
Georgia
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June 28, 2011 - 7:47 am
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welcometo the dwf-sign. Sounds like the guys have you covered so enjoy the site.

LB

Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.

                                                                                                                             

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Adam42
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June 28, 2011 - 10:22 pm
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Welcome, sounds like lbruce hit that nail squarely on the head.

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