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July 9, 2025
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Hello!
This is my first post on the forum, but I used your knowledge many times before- which I really appreciate.
I have 2 Dan Wesson revolvers and I love them for their accouracy. Unfortunately I have some issues with both. Both have issues with cylinders:
1) model 715 .357 mag: the cylinder is not blocked properly. When I push cylinder from right to left, with 1 finger and not much force I am able to open cylinder. Moreover second issue is that I can easly rotate the cylinder in opposite site that it should rotate.
2) old model 15 .357 mag: the cylinder is not blocked properly. When I push cylinder from right to left, with 1 finger and not much force I am able to open cylinder. This piece also does not fire all primers in double action, but for that I know I have to replace main spring in handle.
I kindly ask you to point which parts should I buy and replace. Unfortunately, I m not from USA, but I can import parts from USA easly (ebay, other stores). I would appreciate most the exact names of parts or links.
To easly show what are the issues, I uploaded videos of both my guns:
February 21, 2011
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Check the mating face on the cylinder latch.
Its the inner "rib" on the top face of the latch. Also give a thorough deep clean. Crud can get in the recess for the spring limiting its power & length of movement.
Mine developed a burr & so couldn't drop into the cut in the frame fully.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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Welcome to the forum from PA USA!!!!!
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DWF Supporters
June 11, 2016
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Welcome tothe Forum from Wisconsin.
February 16, 2016
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to the 
July 9, 2025
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Thank you all for warm welcoming 🙂
mister callan said
Check the mating face on the cylinder latch.Its the inner "rib" on the top face of the latch. Also give a thorough deep clean. Crud can get in the recess for the spring limiting its power & length of movement.
Mine developed a burr & so couldn't drop into the cut in the frame fully.
Thank you for advise. I m on vacation now and I will be back to topic after that, in 2 weeks, cause I have to finally solve that for both guns.
I will keep you all updated in this topic.
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February 22, 2009
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The first thing to do is a thorough cleaning using the Average Joe method on the forum. Then my next move would be new springs for both the latch and the bolt.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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January 24, 2009
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rwsem said
The first thing to do is a thorough cleaning using the Average Joe method on the forum. Then my next move would be new springs for both the latch and the bolt.
Exactly. ^^^
Rowan45, those guns are begging to be blown apart for a good scrubbing.
I have bought a couple guns on GB in years past (my 7445 comes to mind), where they looked good in the auction photos, then once they were here & in my hand, I was like holy 'chit, this thing is freakin' filthy! 
The cylinder on the 7445 did not want to latch well at all, turned really tight & the barrel fouling was terrible. I immediately blew each of them apart for a well deserved good 'ol scrubbing. They have been very happy guns since then. 
And that was what...12 ~ 14 years ago? They are still happy guns. 
July 9, 2025
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Hello All,
I m back from my vacation. Thank you all for replies 🙂
So I did some SPA for the old 15 model. You all were right, it was dirty as hell, I had to scrub it for a long time with brass brush and gun cleaner. Here you can check some before/after pics:
This part looks a bit worn, but the top seems to be still sharp:
This photo was shoot before cleaning. I couldn't find the U-shape spring here (red arrow). I saw on dissasembling videos that there is such spring, but I dont have that in my piece:
Could somebody please advise me if these dimensions and appearance of the main spring are OK or should I buy brand new spring? To solve issues with Double Action shooting.
I would be very thankful if you could tell me what are the names of springs that I need to buy and even better, if you have links to them.
I wanted to do similar troubleshooting for second gun. But I have issue with 715 model- I cant open latch- I have 2 sets of allen keys, in cals and in mm, but nothing fits. The 1,5mm is too large and when I tried cals allen keys, the smallest is too small and the bigger is too big. Do you maybe know what is the correct key size? Probably I will also need some new springs there :/
February 21, 2011
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That's the burr on the cylinder latch I was mentioning.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
July 9, 2025
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mister callan said
That's the burr on the cylinder latch I was mentioning.
Hi, do you think I should use some sandpaper to make this edge even?
Can you please send me zoomed photo of how it should look like ideally?
Could you please advise me on where can I get replacement springs? 🙂 and if should I have a U spring under the latch.
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December 7, 2020
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Rowan45 said
Could you please advise me on where can I get replacement springs? 🙂 and if should I have a U spring under the latch.
https://shop.cz-usa.com/dan-wesson-revolver-spring-kit-small-framedwrsks.html
https://www.ewkarms.com/zen8/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=67_12
February 21, 2011
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NOT sandpaper. Or anything else flexible.
You need something that will create a clean strait edge. A swissfile or watchmakers file would work though if you were careful.
I don't have a pic handy, but will take one for you & post it.
Think of it this way, the recess in the frame & the rib that should engage inside it should be a good square fit, otherwise recoil will just slide it out of engagement. Hows the matching surface in the frame? Is that burred also?
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
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February 22, 2009
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I measure the hex key at 1.25mm (3/64") and you absolutely need the U-shaped spring. That is what keeps the upward tension on the latch into the frame.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
February 21, 2011
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There are 2 " U-Shaped things".
From the parts diagram:
#25, "Latch Spring" which forces the latch to engage
&
#42, Crane Lock.
You need both.
One makes the burred latch engaged & may be why its so burred in the first place, & the other stops the entire cylinder slipping off the crane of tilted up yo unload!
Pics, as promised.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
July 9, 2025
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Hi ALL!
rwsem said
I measure the hex key at 1.25mm (3/64") and you absolutely need the U-shaped spring. That is what keeps the upward tension on the latch into the frame.
For stainless steel model 715: I sucesfully unscrewed that with 1.3mm key. The issue I had was caused by the fact the screw is broken. It barely hold the shape. For now I just screw it back lightly, but I will for sure need new screw.
Before I uploaded photos of old model 15, which does not have that U shape spring in latch, but I m not sure if its needed there. There is some spring and bolt, which you can see on my photo next to latch and they are mounted in the same axis that you move latch when you open the cylinder. I couldnt find new one in any online store yet.
mister callan said
There are 2 " U-Shaped things".From the parts diagram:
#25, "Latch Spring" which forces the latch to engage
&
#42, Crane Lock.
You need both.
One makes the burred latch engaged & may be why its so burred in the first place, & the other stops the entire cylinder slipping off the crane of tilted up yo unload!
Pics, as promised.
At model 715 I have crane lock, but I think I will need to replace the crane spring and as you said, latch spring.
At the weekend I will try to use some file on the latch, ofc carefully. Worst case scenario I will lose near 60 usd for the new latch :/
I would like to once again thank you ALL for your answers!!! I m also trying to describe as much as I can, because this might be helpful for other Dan Wesson users in future.
I will update you ALL at weekend with the status 🙂
February 21, 2011
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Glad you're getting there.
I checked for the 715, to see if it has a different manual with the spring guide & helical spring you show, but it also shows the 15-2 style "U" spring illustrated.
I'm not sure if this is a product upgrade or what, perhaps a 714 owner can settle the point?
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
July 9, 2025
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Hello,
if its upgrade, for sure it was done by some professional gunsmith, cause looks nice.
Do we have here any owner of early prodeced model 15? Can you please dissasemple latch and make a pic of the setup inside latch?
February 21, 2011
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I was thinking more of a DW factory upgrade, not a home gunsmiffin' one, but who knows.
Maybe someone will open one up to check. I have the "U", or "C" spring.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
July 9, 2025
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Hello!
I have some updates.
I fixed a bit edge on the latch, but the cylinder still opens by self when pushed from right to left:
I opened one more time the latch and this is how the spring, spring hole and spring bolt looks like:
I finally found the spring and spring bolt name that I found inside latch. Its 'strut'. JackFirstInc has that:
The only thing which is different from what I have are measurements, but maybe its becuase my is probably worn.
This are the parts from different seller, but I prefer Jack First Inc because I plan to buy the rest of the parts from them, so I will save few $ on shipping:
Dan Wesson Strut Plunger & spring New Factory OEM for all 357 & 22 Revolvers par | eBay
I m wondering what if replacing strut spring will not help- should I buy new latch? They are costly and I m not sure if they have the same mounting system like my does:
Vintage Factory Dan Wesson Model 14 15 Cylinder Latch Blue UNUSED | eBay
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