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February 21, 2011
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Check the mating face on the cylinder latch.
Its the inner "rib" on the top face of the latch. Also give a thorough deep clean. Crud can get in the recess for the spring limiting its power & length of movement.
Mine developed a burr & so couldn't drop into the cut in the frame fully.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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Welcome to the forum from PA USA!!!!!
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DWF Supporters
June 11, 2016
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Welcome tothe Forum from Wisconsin.
February 16, 2016
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to the 
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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The first thing to do is a thorough cleaning using the Average Joe method on the forum. Then my next move would be new springs for both the latch and the bolt.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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January 24, 2009
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rwsem said
The first thing to do is a thorough cleaning using the Average Joe method on the forum. Then my next move would be new springs for both the latch and the bolt.
Exactly. ^^^
Rowan45, those guns are begging to be blown apart for a good scrubbing.
I have bought a couple guns on GB in years past (my 7445 comes to mind), where they looked good in the auction photos, then once they were here & in my hand, I was like holy 'chit, this thing is freakin' filthy! 
The cylinder on the 7445 did not want to latch well at all, turned really tight & the barrel fouling was terrible. I immediately blew each of them apart for a well deserved good 'ol scrubbing. They have been very happy guns since then. 
And that was what...12 ~ 14 years ago? They are still happy guns. 
February 21, 2011
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That's the burr on the cylinder latch I was mentioning.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
Dans Club
December 7, 2020
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Rowan45 said
Could you please advise me on where can I get replacement springs? 🙂 and if should I have a U spring under the latch.
https://shop.cz-usa.com/dan-wesson-revolver-spring-kit-small-framedwrsks.html
https://www.ewkarms.com/zen8/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=67_12
February 21, 2011
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NOT sandpaper. Or anything else flexible.
You need something that will create a clean strait edge. A swissfile or watchmakers file would work though if you were careful.
I don't have a pic handy, but will take one for you & post it.
Think of it this way, the recess in the frame & the rib that should engage inside it should be a good square fit, otherwise recoil will just slide it out of engagement. Hows the matching surface in the frame? Is that burred also?
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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I measure the hex key at 1.25mm (3/64") and you absolutely need the U-shaped spring. That is what keeps the upward tension on the latch into the frame.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
February 21, 2011
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There are 2 " U-Shaped things".
From the parts diagram:
#25, "Latch Spring" which forces the latch to engage
&
#42, Crane Lock.
You need both.
One makes the burred latch engaged & may be why its so burred in the first place, & the other stops the entire cylinder slipping off the crane of tilted up yo unload!
Pics, as promised.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
February 21, 2011
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Glad you're getting there.
I checked for the 715, to see if it has a different manual with the spring guide & helical spring you show, but it also shows the 15-2 style "U" spring illustrated.
I'm not sure if this is a product upgrade or what, perhaps a 714 owner can settle the point?
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
February 21, 2011
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I was thinking more of a DW factory upgrade, not a home gunsmiffin' one, but who knows.
Maybe someone will open one up to check. I have the "U", or "C" spring.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
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