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December 26, 2018
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I have a 6" .22LR with a stripped barrel nut. I see lots of information about dealing with this on .357 revolvers with 5/16" threaded rod, obviously that won't work on a .22. I'm looking for advice.
Thanks
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December 4, 2011
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Same technique, just use smaller rod. EWKArms sells a special wrench that can help you get off a stuck or stripped nut. See the link on right sidebar.
Anything worth doing is worth doing well.
My father
If a man designed it, and a man built it, then a man can fix it.
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December 26, 2018
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SCORPIO said
Same technique, just use smaller rod. EWKArms sells a special wrench that can help you get off a stuck or stripped nut. See the link on right sidebar.
I'm concerned that the torsional rigidity 3/16" threaded rod would be inadequate, tension too for that matter. I'm considering using 3/16" round stock and threading the ends for a small increase in strength, I think that would be easier on the rifling as well.
Have you done the process on a .22? Did you turn the barrel nut, or the barrel itself, to get things loosened up?
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December 4, 2011
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Haven't done it to a 22 but have on both a 357amd a 44. I like your idea on the 3/16 rod, good thought. I had the barrel come out of the frame on the 44 and the nut came off the 357.
Anything worth doing is worth doing well.
My father
If a man designed it, and a man built it, then a man can fix it.
My grandfather
August 29, 2009
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I'll say it all day long....the clamp method has always worked the best and fastest for me. If you have one of the original steel .22 wrenches it will work, otherwise you'd need to get one from EWK. Even if the notches in the nut are stripped, as long as you clamp the wrench down so it can't jump the notches, it will come off. Heat your barrel up, clamp it down, and voila....instant removal.
https://www.danwessonforum.com/forum/reloading/stuck-barrel-nut-1/
December 26, 2018
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DakotaJack said
I'll say it all day long....the clamp method has always worked the best and fastest for me. If you have one of the original steel .22 wrenches it will work, otherwise you'd need to get one from EWK. Even if the notches in the nut are stripped, as long as you clamp the wrench down so it can't jump the notches, it will come off. Heat your barrel up, clamp it down, and voila....instant removal.
https://www.danwessonforum.com/forum/reloading/stuck-barrel-nut-1/
I'm certainly considering that, but the notches in the nut are badly stripped so it would take considerable pressure, possibly more than a bar clamp can provide, to hold the wrench to the nut, and then that pressure will be on the threads that I'm trying to turn.
I have a new EWK wrench, the original was plastic and broke when the nut was stripped.
August 29, 2009
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moto vita said
I'm certainly considering that, but the notches in the nut are badly stripped so it would take considerable pressure, possibly more than a bar clamp can provide, to hold the wrench to the nut, and then that pressure will be on the threads that I'm trying to turn.
I have a new EWK wrench, the original was plastic and broke when the nut was stripped.
Go get the $6 clamp at Harbor Freight (make sure it is like the one in the photo with cast jaws, I just saw them there a week ago) and it will work. You won't need "considerable pressure" and you don't have to crank it down. If you snug it down just enough do that it doesn't slip the notches the wrench can't go anywhere.
March 19, 2016
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I agree with everyone on the clamp or rod method. It will be tough if the nut is bad. I would soak it with a good penetrating oil first, it can only help. I had the same issue about 6 weeks ago. Nothing worked for me. I ended up sending it to Dan Wesson. They called me two weeks later and told me they would need to sacrifice the barrel because they could not get it loose either. Good luck
December 26, 2018
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10magnums said
I agree with everyone on the clamp or rod method. It will be tough if the nut is bad. I would soak it with a good penetrating oil first, it can only help. I had the same issue about 6 weeks ago. Nothing worked for me. I ended up sending it to Dan Wesson. They called me two weeks later and told me they would need to sacrifice the barrel because they could not get it loose either. Good luck
I assume that they had a new barrel for you. I suspect that may be a bigger problem for my .22LR, they don't list one but I should call them and ask so I know what my options are. They show 10" .22 barrels available, I wonder what it would take to cut one down, or if I could find a 10" shroud.
It's soaking up Kroil now.
August 29, 2009
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Post a picture of the nut.
December 26, 2018
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October 1, 2012
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I have removed FUBAR barrel nuts by making new notches with a dremel and a tiny etching ball bit. Cut them 90 degrees offset of original. It takes a steady hand. Also use some heat. Folks have been known to loctite the nut for some crazy reason ??? I usually use a soldering iron with a tip that I filed down to the exact slot size. Use PB Blaster then put the hot soldering tip in the slot. It smokes, boils, and penetrates into the threads. Repeat several times and then wrench it. Good Luck
Hugelk
December 26, 2018
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hugelk said
I have removed FUBAR barrel nuts by making new notches with a dremel and a tiny etching ball bit. Cut them 90 degrees offset of original. It takes a steady hand. Also use some heat. Folks have been known to loctite the nut for some crazy reason ??? I usually use a soldering iron with a tip that I filed down to the exact slot size. Use PB Blaster then put the hot soldering tip in the slot. It smokes, boils, and penetrates into the threads. Repeat several times and then wrench it. Good LuckHugelk
Thanks, I'm considering using the Dremel to square up the original slots a bit if I can't get the wrench to grab when clamped.
August 29, 2009
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Somebody did a number on it, but you don't need much to grab on to when you clamp it down. Put some heat on it also.
Here you go.....I got the Bessey Clamp at HD a number of years ago (before we had a local Harbor Freight) and it hasn't failed me yet.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-bar-clamp-96214.html
Now I'm going to be in suspense until you try it, wondering if it worked.
December 26, 2018
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DakotaJack said
Somebody did a number on it, but you don't need much to grab on to when you clamp it down. Put some heat on it also.Here you go.....I got the Bessey Clamp at HD a number of years ago (before we had a local Harbor Freight) and it hasn't failed me yet.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-bar-clamp-96214.html
Now I'm going to be in suspense until you try it, wondering if it worked.
I've got some 1/2" pipe clamps, my plan is to put a penny on the breech end of the barrel and try that. Now I'm applying Kroil to the threads a few times a day and letting it soak in. If I need to get more serious than that it may have to wait until I get back to my shop up north.
I'm the somebody that did the damage. The initial damage happened when the pilot of the plastic wrench broke off while attempting to loosen the nut to adjust the gap. I don't remember what I did after that to complete the butchery, it was about 30 years ago.
The problem is that the gap is a little too tight and there is a slight drag on the rotating cylinder, just enough to make double action shooting impractical, and manual cocking balky at times. I recently traded into a Smith&Wesson 617, shooting that made me realize what a great revolver the Dan is so I'd like to get it into top operating condition.
December 26, 2018
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The nut is off!
I put the gun in a vise with the barrel pointing up and periodically applied Kroil to the nut until it ran out past the threads at the frame end of the barrel. I used an 8" C clamp, my new EWK wrench and a 1974 penny (oldest one I could lay my hands on). It took considerable effort, but came apart perfectly.
I have an original replacement nut that I ordered back when the damage was done, but I think I'll wait and order one of the 4 slotted nuts from EWK, as this would have been a very simple issue had that style nut been used originally.
Now if anybody knows where I could find an 8 or 10" .22LR barrel assembly I'd love to hear about it.
Thanks y'all
Jeff
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February 22, 2009
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That's great to hear!
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
August 29, 2009
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Excellent - glad to hear you broke it loose.
December 26, 2018
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I got my new nut from EWK today and went to assemble the gun. I see now what has been my problem all these years, it appears the cylinder chambers were reamed after the cylinder was faced off. There is a slight ring of proud metal at the front of each chamber, more on one chamber than the others. What is the best way to relieve the ridge at the front of the chambers? If I wasn't dealing with high pressure, and concerned about matching all the chambers I would simply bevel the front end of the chambers, but I'm sure there's a better way, what is it?
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December 4, 2011
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A pic would really help with this one.
I'm thinking take the cylinder off the crane and rub it down on a flat piece of material with some very fine abrasive cloth then deburr the chamber throats with a very fine file, but again, I'm only guessing without actually seeing the condition in question.
Anything worth doing is worth doing well.
My father
If a man designed it, and a man built it, then a man can fix it.
My grandfather
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