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November 4, 2008
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I several questions that I am sure you guys could help with.
The 1st, I am having problems with the extractor star jumping the rim on the empty brass at times. Any one else have this happen very often? Would this be a worn bushing issue and if so, does CZDW still offer the part(s) needed to fix?
The next is not quite as important, does the barrel twist on EWK's barrels have a favorable effect on long range accuracy with the heavier bullets such as the 170-180 gr. range?
The 3rd, for you screw experts, I need to find replacement screws for my Burris no drill mount. Does anyone know the screw size for this mount?
Thanks all, happy shooting, I dig my homemade pistol pak, go plinking whenever I squirrel away a little time and have the itch.
Oh, and if you havn't tried this load you may want to;
15.2 grains 2400 - Winchester XTP 158gr SP = 1 jagged hole at 25 yds. ("Texas" nickel brass) from scoped V 8". 
May 17, 2010
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Well, I can't help with 1 and 3.. but I did read up on #2…
The standard twist rate on DW .357 barrels of less than 10" is 1/16, EWK barrels are 1/12. The link I once had is dead, it had a great table that simply stated a favorable twist rate per caliber and bullet weight/length. To be honest the table while easy to read, did not make a lick of sense.. in that one could NOT make an assumption from caliber to caliber.. ie there was no simple graph to it.
What could be derrived (if anything) is that slow heavy and long bullets need a faster twist while fast short light bullets need less twist. Only 2 numbers are still with me:
a .357 @ 1100FPS (or more) and @ 125gr bullet is best suited by a 1/16 twist
a .38 @ 800 FPS and @ 158gr bullet is best suited by a 1/12 twist
These were the only two figures he gave for that caliber. Without more data points I can't deduce what makes the most difference… speed or weight or even length. Nor can I say what is best for a heavy bullet at higher speeds…
Since 99% of what I shoot is 148 to 158 grain cast bullets as tossed by a .38 ( using 3.5gr of Titegroup) out of a VH6 .. I really enjoy the 1/12.
The nice thing is that you can buy JUST the barrel, and use your old shroud.. I find that VERY cost effective.
When I tried my first ever self-made re-loads.. I strapped on the EH6 and the 1/12 barrel….just in case. What I ended up with was pure pleasure. A real all day shooter.
Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box
in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
November 4, 2008
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Thanks for shedding some light on #2, it may well be worth the $50 to get an 8" tube from EWK since I hardly ever shoot below 148 grs.
Maybe I'll get lucky and run across someone who has had the star jump empty brass and leave them in the cylinder who has idenitified the problem. It is a pain in the rear to dig them out and I always worry about scratching the frame (more) with the extractor star. It's the only thing I don't like about my DW, which is Monson made.
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February 22, 2009
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With regard to (WRT) brass jumping the star- turn the barrel skyward and let gravity help. A quick tap should empty every chamber. My $.02
WRT twist rate- it is the length of the bullet (and longer bullets tend to weigh more) which is the concern. The stability calculator at: http://www.jbmballistics.com/ballistics/calculators/calculators.shtml will help you.
FWIW heavy bullets in the 1:16" twist should not be a problem, even at 900 fps. 1:12 is good insurance for $50.
HDY 200gr. FTX (rifle) bullets are 1.09"
HDY 180gr. Single Shot Pistol (SSP) Bullets are .935"
Best Regards, Ron
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
October 11, 2009
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On occasion mine will jump the star as well. Though I have not investagted it much farther then that. I would be interested if you find anfix though
June 25, 2011
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Ok, I might be crazy but in regards to the star jumping my question would be are you reloading and using once-fired brass?
Here's why...
When I use brass which has been previously fired in my S&W 686, even though the brass has been resized, the brass seems to stick in the cylinder of my DW and I have to dig them out with my fingernail. When I use factory loads or new brass I do not experience the same problem.
Again, I might be crazy, but I know the cylinders on the S&W are larger than the DW and I think it might be expanding the brass to the cylinder size of the S&W when shot out of that gun and although I am resizing them I know the resizing die does not always make it down to the rim of the brass 100%. So, in my limited knowledge and experience, I think it is possible that while the cartridges seat in the DW, once they reach high pressure, the cartridge walls are expanding more in the brass used in the S&W than new brass or brass used only in the DW and causing them to hang up in the cylinder.
If I'm nuts and my circumstances were due to coincidence, not expanding brass, someone please let me know, I'm sure there are many on this forum who have a much better grasp on the science and physics of reloading.
Gary from AZ
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February 22, 2009
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palo/ glockanator- I am guessing the rims are "jumping the star" when it's nearly at full extraction and the muzzle is pointed down? This can happen to nearly any revolver which doesn't use moon or half moon clips.
Simply point the muzzle skyward and give a crisp and firm tap on the ejector. Just once; no wiggling; gravity is your friend. That should do it.
gsquare- I don't see that firing cases in different handguns would cause that. I would guess after sizing your brass you no longer have a 'factory smooth' exterior. The chambers on your Dan may me a bit rough too. Combined, that could make extraction a sticky. I'd try polishing the chambers w/ some very fine (black) emory cloth on a stick and oil. Follow that up with final polishing using a felt wheel and buffing compound or JB bore paste. Be careful not to get into the throats though, and go lightly. You may not need the emory cloth. Brownells sells a flexhone if you want to go that route. No matter what you do, you don't need to get the cylinders mirror/ bearing smooth- just loose the tooling marks. The case will need somthing to grip, otherwise you get unnecessarry battering.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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March 27, 2009
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On the jumping star, for some reason I only have this problem when useing 38's, 357's clear nicely with the jump.
Skyward I go! Thanks all for great info!
November 4, 2008
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I only have two .357 revolvers, both are Dan 15-2s (never felt the need to have any more), so I cannot attribute the problem to running brass through other brands. Cylinders are clean and I don't attribute the problem to being "stuck". The extractor rod pushes out with my finger, just jumps an empty or two once in awhile.
I have always just considered this to be a minor anoyance and had not given it much thought, I just point up and push the ejectore rod. No problem.
BUT, what if it were a circumstance where the weapon was being used in a true self defense situation? Am I going to remember to point it up, probobly not.
It seems to me that since only one or two stay in the cylinder (next to each other) when the problem arises, that there must be something worn causing the star to shift just slightly enough to jump the rim on the brass.
This is what I plan to do; number 1, pay more attention to which guns and which cylinder ports this is happening with. Then, I guess I will see if the parts that work with the star are still available.
DWA, I have the problem crop up with .357 brass also. They are a bigger pita to get out due to the length being so close to the extention of the extractor star when pushed all the way out.
I don't think that a weapon should have to be pointed up in order to work properly, it does do the job as you mentioned rwsem, I just am too forgetfull to want to try and always remember.
Also, thanks for the link.
As always, it is always beneficial to touch bases with my fellow DW fans.
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Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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palo said:
BUT, what if it were a circumstance where the weapon was being used in a true self defense situation? Am I going to remember to point it up, probobly not.
Just make the first 6 count 
SHOOT
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February 22, 2009
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palo said:
BUT, what if it were a circumstance where the weapon was being used in a true self defense situation? Am I going to remember to point it up, probobly not.
Just train as you fight and it will become muscle memory. Of course the easiest way to reload a revolver in a combat situation is to pull out the backup... or become Jerry Miculek.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
June 25, 2011
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thanks rwsem, good suggestions, I'll give them a try.
Gary
February 11, 2010
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palo said:
Am I going to remember to point it up, probobly not.
Yes you will because you need to drill yourself every week, I work long
hours in the summer months and even though there are weeks or a month
may go by I don't get to get out and shoot, I always make time on the
weekends to run draw and reloading drills
-Blacktop
September 2, 2011
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My father was an old time police officer and PPC competitor. When he started teaching me to shoot it was with revolvers and he taught me to reload in a particular way that carried me from the age of 8 to 58 including carrying a S&W 40 hours a week for 4 years.
Unlatch the cylinder.
Swing out the cylinder with the index finger of the right hand. (This works really well with Colts, you have the cylinder latch to pull on to twist the gun in your hand and get the right position.)
Keep the tip of the finger in a cylinder flute to index the cylinder. Yes, this means changing your grip temporarily, it is a trade off, but even at 16 I could do it with a Colt Officers Model, so most people can make it work.
Rotate the revolver counter clockwise so the cylinder is on the bottom, raise the muzzle and eject the shells while moving the revolver sharply up. You almost end up pushing the ejector rod up into your left hand rather than pushing it in. It takes practice but pretty quickly becomes second nature. It sounds like a bunch of steps, but really it is just a couple of smooth movements. When empty the gun should end up about chest level, where you will be inclined to keep your eyes up.
The reason for this is that as the shells start to come out of the chambers they are free to wobble around and get loose from the ejector. As they leave the chambers less and less of their length is inside the chamber, so there is very little to keep them straight, at some point they are pretty much free to go any which way. Moving the revolver up, while pushing the shells out and down minimizes the chance of the extractor star skipping a shell and having a shell get loose and get stuck UNDER the ejector star and tying up your gun. They can drop right back in the chamber under the ejector star or get sideways under it too. That isn't bad, but when they drop back in the hole it takes a little work to get them out.
Gravity pulls the empty shells down anyway, let it help you get them clear and away from potential trouble.
Now bring the gun back upright and slightly muzzle down for reloading.
Since this was before speed loaders were common, he taught me to pick three shells from my belt slide align them with the cylinder and slid them in. (It helps to start with two and work up.) Remember the thing with keeping a fingertip on the cylinder? Now use the left hand to rotate the cylinder three notches against that finger tip. Now three empty holes are on top, right where you can load them with the next three rounds. That means you can keep your eyes on the target; not on the gun looking for the chambers.
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February 22, 2009
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Holy cow, I thought my alter ego had a DW user ID!
Welcome RonS- that's 'zactly what I was trying to say, only better.
Best Regards, another Ron S.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
February 11, 2010
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rwsem said:
Holy cow, I thought my alter ego had a DW user ID!
Welcome RonS- that's 'zactly what I was trying to say, only better.
Best Regards, another Ron S.
Heck Yea ! and another Buckeye too ! Watch out Blue !
-Blacktop
September 2, 2011
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Thanks, been a lurker here for a long time, but the question got me thinking about dad and some of the things he taught me.
Hope the explanation helps someone.
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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Since I only shoot DW revolvers, I (I'm a right handed shooter BTW) learned early on to:
1) Shift my left hand up, cradling the trigger guard in the palm of my hand
2) Left thumb releases the cylinder latch, left fore and middle fingers curl up to swing out the cylinder and slide into the frame.
3) Right hand releases the grip to retrieve speed loader. Grip tilts down, muzzle swings up, not fully upward, about 45-60 degrees down from horizontal
4) Left thumb pushes ejector to dump the brass, now gravity assisted to drop cleanly.
5) With left thumb and fore/middle fingers firmly holding the cylinder, gun rotates up through horizontal to slightly muzzle down.
6) Insert speedloader, release bullets, discard speedloader
7) Re-grip with right hand, close cylinder firmly while bringing gun back to horizontal and moving onto target
8) Left hand re-establishes proper grip as the gun pushes out into shooting stance
Takes a lot longer to describe than to do it. I'm no speed shooter, but it keeps the gun under control, and allows gravity to help unload and reload properly. In order to do this really quickly, you would need a slightly larger cylinder release latch, with a large thumb surface. If there's a good fabricator out there, maybe there's a market for a DW "Speed Latch" not unlike the way 1911 safeties get enlarged for more positive contact with the thumb.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
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