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125g bullets out dan wesson
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okinawanfighter
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December 1, 2010 - 3:48 pm
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So since I've been on a roll lately asking questions about my dan wesson I thought I would bring something else up thats been on my mind. Ive been told in the past its not a good idea to shoot 125g rounds out of the k-frame smith and wessons. Reason was that they were originaly designed for the 158g bullet which is longer than the 125g bullets. Apparently the 158's seal the gap when the bullet leaves the cylinder and jumps the gap into the forcing cone. With the shorter 125g bullet this gap isnt sealed and the hot gasses pass through and causes issues with the forcing cone. Also the 125 g bullet isnt as stabalized and can actually slightly impact the forcing cone. I was told the combination of the two can start cracks in the forcing cone at the 6'oclock position. Attached is a real good article which explains it much better than I probably did. http://www.gunblast.com/Butch_MagnumLoads.htm

Now heres my issue. I shoot 125g bullets from my s&w 642 because they shoot at the same point of aim as my defensive rounds. I handload every round I shoot in all my guns and have a huge stock pile of 125g bullets. Been shooting 125g bullets out of my dan wesson model 15 porkchop because thats what I have on hand. Not that it matters for my question but I load them with 16.5g of 2400. Now for the question. Am I going to destroy my model 15 by shooting 125g bullets? I dont mind buying 158g bullets for it if I have too, its just easier to only have to stock 125g bullets. I hope some of you experts in here can help me out! I'd hate to mess this gun up!!!

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Pinetor
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December 1, 2010 - 4:11 pm
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hehehe the "cheaters" response:

 

Dont matter with a DW.. set your gap as close as you want, shoot anything you want! I have 500 125 gr,  38sp loaded up and ready to shoot.

 

PS: I really dont know the correct response but I bet I am right.

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HPMike800
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December 7, 2010 - 3:09 pm
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I think the discussion is relavent to any revolver. It's based on chamber dimentions and he's saying the short bullets allow uncontrolled gas escape . Flame cutting is the primary cause of barrel deterioration in rifle barrels, it does remove steel.

 

I'll stay away from 125's. 

 

Thanks for the post.

Mike

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okinawanfighter
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December 7, 2010 - 3:40 pm
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Yea I think I will too. Allready have 158g zero brand bullets ordered. Not worth the risk for me.

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SHOOTIST357
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December 7, 2010 - 4:04 pm
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I guess I'm really in trouble if I shoot my 88 JHP's in my 357 Laugh... I shoot whatever I can get my hands on--if it mics anywhere between .356 and .358 it goes down the barrel no matter what the weight.

SHOOT

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Pinetor
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December 7, 2010 - 5:13 pm
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Well, after reading the web page, his own conclusion is that it is not really an issue. Good practise with not shooting "hot loads" and good practises in cleaning keep such problems to a minimum.

 

Owning  DW and having access to third party barrels, that I can change myself, means even if I DO wear out a barrel, for $150 I can replace it.

 

Now all that said, I have well over 6000 rounds on my 1986 15-2, pretty much split between the 6" and the 8" barrels. I mostly shoot 158gr SWC, or 158 HPWC, or a smaller rounds ( 125gr JHP)... but 98% are 38sp loaded for target at from 750 - 850 fps. I don't think there has been even 100 .357 rounds put through it. They cost too much and slow down my repeat shots. I have used them as "clean up" that is to one or two after a session of 10o rounds of all lead .38.  

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DrSparky
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December 7, 2010 - 6:19 pm
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I shoot about every weight and type bullet that I can find.  I reload two to three hundred rounds at a time and shoot them all in the average weekend.  I never have any problems.

Chuck

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kpm
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December 7, 2010 - 6:36 pm
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K frames have a flat spot which is thinner on the forcing cone.

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wdelack
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December 8, 2010 - 9:57 pm
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The following is taken from a post by Bob Baker over at the Graybeard Outdoors forum.  Bob Baker is the president of Freedom Arms.

 

"For the others, forcing cone erosion happens with both cast and jacketed bullets.  The better question is which gives us more life from the forcing cone?  As a general rule the forcing cone will last longer with cast bullets than with jacketed bullets.  That assumes though that the cast bullet was cast with clean material and of the proper hardness for the load it is being used in.

Also keep in mind the velocity isn't as big of a factor in forcing cone erosion as the pressure developed by the powder being used.  Years ago I did a test using the M83 in .357 mag., 180 gr. XTP bullets and two different powders, H110 and AA#9.  I found I would lose accuracy  with the AA#9 load before the H110 load even though both were loaded to the same velocity.  Basically the #9 load had more pressure and a faster pressure that was distorting the bullet in the forcing cone of the barrel.  This distortion also accelerates forcing cone erosion as the bullet swells to fit the forcing cone but has to size back down to fit through the barrel.  The sizing process pulls off particles of bullet which go out through the cylinder/barrel gap and erode the forcing cone.

Someone mentioned cracking a forcing cone.  This is quite often caused by the bullet stacking up in the forcing cone.  When the bullet hits the forcing cone it swells out causing a lot of radial pressure on the barrel which will crack the barrel.  Any misalignment of chamber to barrel only makes the problem worse.  The lineboring and minimal forcing cone angle we do at FA help reduce the chance of forcing cone cracking and give better accuracy due to less distortion of the bullet."

3PPCLined.jpg

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Fishslayer
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January 7, 2011 - 4:13 pm
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You should be OK loading 125gr with a fast powder. The forcing cone issues started showing up with people handloading huge charges of slow powder under 115gr bullets in their S&W M19s. The M19 has a weak spot in the forcing cone to begin with sooooo....

I load my 125gr bullets with Bullseye & use 2400 for the 158gr Big Dogs.

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Waldo Pepper
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January 9, 2011 - 10:52 pm
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Newbies to to DW are often scared to do things because they are used to S&W and the clone Taurus I guess, DW's ain't S&W, the DW 15/715 is stronger then a K or L frame Smith and about equal to N frame and never really has forcing cone issues like S&W due to being able too adjust barrel gap and the fact it has a better designed barrel that does not have a traditional forcing cone design like Smith's.

The only reason I own the 3 S&W revolvers is I like 10mm auto round and consider it far superior to the 357 and when hand loaded properly in a S&W 610 or a Colt Delta Elite the round is almost the equal to the 41 magnum.

My Delta Elite and my old Glock 29 were hell on wheels with a 135 JHP tripping out the barrel about 1650 fps and 180 JHP about 1350 fps, but with my 629 3" Smith I don't shoot 1300 FPS 300 grain JHP like I do on ocassion with my 744 that's for sure.

My opinion is DW made the best standard production revolvers ever made, with Colt a close second. Love my Trooper III.

 

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DrSparky
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January 10, 2011 - 6:32 am
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Waldo Pepper said:

Newbies to to DW are often scared to do things because they are used to S&W and the clone Taurus I guess, DW's ain't S&W, the DW 15/715 is stronger then a K or L frame Smith and about equal to N frame and never really has forcing cone issues like S&W due to being able too adjust barrel gap and the fact it has a better designed barrel that does not have a traditional forcing cone design like Smith's.

The only reason I own the 3 S&W revolvers is I like 10mm auto round and consider it far superior to the 357 and when hand loaded properly in a S&W 610 or a Colt Delta Elite the round is almost the equal to the 41 magnum.

My Delta Elite and my old Glock 29 were hell on wheels with a 135 JHP tripping out the barrel about 1650 fps and 180 JHP about 1350 fps, but with my 629 3" Smith I don't shoot 1300 FPS 300 grain JHP like I do on ocassion with my 744 that's for sure.

My opinion is DW made the best standard production revolvers ever made, with Colt a close second. Love my Trooper III.


A SW 610 is on my list.  I got my Delta when they came out in the late 80s and got a Glock 20 a few years ago.  Love that 10mm.

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Waldo Pepper
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January 10, 2011 - 7:11 am
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Love the Glock for accuracy, reliability, but just can not warm up to Tupperware guns.

Here's my 1987 model DE with the Altamont grips.

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Here's the gun that's always in the car, a S&W 629-8 Talo Exclussive 3" barrel.

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Waldo Pepper
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January 10, 2011 - 7:27 am
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Hummm, pictures show in my edit format but not when just looking at the post in regular view mode. When making post it said moderator was notified. What's wrong? 

 

Look's like the picture is too large, never had that happen before.

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Blacktop
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January 10, 2011 - 9:02 am
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+DW.jpg

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Waldo Pepper
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January 10, 2011 - 11:06 am
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I ended up downsizing the DE since it was not a 640x480 size.

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Waldo Pepper
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January 10, 2011 - 10:08 pm
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The barrels are 9mm and there were a few made and DW even has a bunch of cylinders in stock, however only known barrels are here at my friends shop. Go figure.

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HPMike800
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January 11, 2011 - 1:09 am
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My 10mm is a Les Bear, I would never shoot the loads Waldo does out of a 1911. Maybe out of a revolver. IMHO, you have to temper your loads in a semiauto.

 

Mike

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Waldo Pepper
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January 11, 2011 - 7:15 am
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Nope, just respring the guns, my 1911 is running 23lb Wolff recoil spring and Buffer Tech buffer and it runs smooth as silk, and the N frame Smith is not even strained by the 10mm max loads.

Lot of 10mm Smith 610's have been reamed to 10mm magnum for use with heavy bullets like 230 gr and to get greater range. Planning on doing the 10mm mag myself this spring to my 610-3 with 6.5" barrel.

The 10mm auto is a greatly under rated and under powered in recent years. The original Norma load for the 10mm was 180 gr at about 1350 fps IIRC. The 10mm has about 200 foot pounds of energy at 100 yards then the 230gr 45ACP does at the muzzle.

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FloridaDWCollector
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January 11, 2011 - 9:11 am
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You guys all must shoot A WHOLE LOT MORE than I do if you are worried about wearing a gun out; or you don't have enough guns to shoot.

I don't know what the average life of a DW barrel is, but it appears most of the members have multiple DWs as well as others. If you have the time and money to wear out a barrel, more power to ya.

Just guessing, based on what I can find on the internet for "average barrel life" for a variety of weapons, the barrel should be good for 5-10K rounds. I'll die long before I get 5K rounds through all of my guns. Maybe my great grandkids can wear them out for me.

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