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February 22, 2009
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For gmann who posted this on the Firing Range:
Not sure how to post on this forum yet, but I have a dan wesson .357. When I shoot, whether .38 or .357 rounds, occasionally a spent cartridge will move back in the chamber enough to prevent the action from moving. Is this common? Can it be fixed? Is it dangerous to shoot? If I should be asking this elsewhere, please direct the noob.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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February 22, 2009
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I would guess maybe the problem is at the other end: barrel gap may be too tight and once it heats up, a proud chamber binds on the barrel.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
May 2, 2014
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rwsem said
I would guess maybe the problem is at the other end: barrel gap may be too tight and once it heats up, a proud chamber binds on the barrel.
Interesting. I haven't shot the gun in a year or so and that may be it. But I remembering pushing the cartridge back into the cylinder and thinking that solved the issue each time. Either way, is there a fix? Â Is it dangerous to shoot?
May 2, 2014
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gmann said
rwsem said
I would guess maybe the problem is at the other end: barrel gap may be too tight and once it heats up, a proud chamber binds on the barrel.Interesting. I haven't shot the gun in a year or so and that may be it. But I remembering pushing the cartridge back into the cylinder and thinking that solved the issue each time. Either way, is there a fix? Â Is it dangerous to shoot?
Oh, and thanks for the help.Â
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February 22, 2009
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Here's where I would start: Gun IS EMPTY! Â Check to make sure it it EMPTY..
Cycle the revolver while holding the frame in front of good light to observe the barrel-cylinder gap. Â The closest it should be is about .003"-.004" for reliable firing with a hot cylinder. Â On the tightest chamber- loosen the barrel nut and back the barrel out until you get the correct gap. The tool that comes with the DW is .006". Â Tighten the barrel nut then go fire a few cylinders full to see if that was the issue.
Hope that does it. Oh- and you are welcome!
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
May 2, 2014
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rwsem said
Here's where I would start: Gun IS EMPTY! Â Check to make sure it it EMPTY..Cycle the revolver while holding the frame in front of good light to observe the barrel-cylinder gap. Â The closest it should be is about .003"-.004" for reliable firing with a hot cylinder. Â On the tightest chamber- loosen the barrel nut and back the barrel out until you get the correct gap. The tool that comes with the DW is .006". Â Tighten the barrel nut then go fire a few cylinders full to see if that was the issue.
Hope that does it. Oh- and you are welcome!
I can't see light through a few of the chambers. I inherited the gun and only got the gun, no extra barrels or tools. It looks like the wrenches and gauge I need are in the store here, so I'll buy those. I also wanted to run the serial number and see when the gun was made. Â I can't seem to find where to do that. Any chance someone could leave me a link.Â
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February 22, 2009
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Serial number listings and a ton of other great stuff is in the Supporter's section.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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March 25, 2013
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Welcome Gmann to the forum. Your in good hands with Ron advising you. Do not shoot the gun till you get a barrel tool. Probably safe but not good for the gun. EWK Arms sells one of the best tools. A set of allen wrenches from the hardware store and feeler gauges from the auto parts store will serve you better than a factory tool.Â
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