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End Shake - am I measuring this right? FTF on WSPM primers
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Wbrco
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September 29, 2018 - 5:26 pm
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Lowering hammer while continuing to hold trigger back.

While continuing to hold trigger back, force cylinder back against lock ball (I used a shaved down paint stick to wedge in to free up my other hand).

Measure gap between front of cylinder and crane latch.

.008 feeler gauge fits, .009 doesn't.

Hits are also off center.

Been through several of the posts and want to make sure I'm not going down a rabbit hole.

 

When I originally did the Average Joe, I didn't remove the firing pin or the cylinder ball. Doing that today. Also going to measure the grip screw. It didn't seem tight, but what do I know...

FTF's at Pin League night ruins your time(s). mad

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snake-eye
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September 29, 2018 - 8:54 pm
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Change your procedure to press the cylinder snug on the lock ball but do not depress the ball against its spring. If the movement is more than .001 or .002 then you need to shim the cylinder.

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Ole Dog
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September 30, 2018 - 6:55 am
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Maybe a new dedent ball spring. Snake-eye has them cheap. 

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Wbrco
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September 30, 2018 - 10:57 pm
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Well went through Ave. Joe again.

Found that I didn't put the transfer bar spring in the little hole in the transfer bar. (note the photo in Ave. Joe shows it wrong). I don't think this is the root cause though.

After reassembly as Snake Eye instructed, no gap when ball spring is not compressed.

Would you believe I don't have a lead pencil in the house to do that test? 

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Wbrco
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October 1, 2018 - 9:43 pm
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So I also backed the grip screw out until half the head was showing, and ran up to the range.

Out of 30, 2 FTF. However in single action the rounds that FTF fired fine.

Calling CZ tomorrow for a new mainspring.

They also have both a short and long grip screw listed on the website. I'll ask which one is correct.

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Rex Beachmont
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October 1, 2018 - 11:11 pm
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snake-eye said
Change your procedure to press the cylinder snug on the lock ball but do not depress the ball against its spring. If the movement is more than .001 or .002 then you need to shim the cylinder.                                       

Thanks for the topic! So l did the procedure on my 744 and with trigger pulled back/full lockup, cylinder has no end shake (front/back play) at all, but by forcing the cylinder back into the lock ball it obviously goes back the travel of the ball until released, springing back to within .006 again. Is that normal for these guns? 

My Baby Lets Me Do What I Want 

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snake-eye
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October 2, 2018 - 11:55 am
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Rex Beachmont said

snake-eye said
Change your procedure to press the cylinder snug on the lock ball but do not depress the ball against its spring. If the movement is more than .001 or .002 then you need to shim the cylinder.                                       

Thanks for the topic! So l did the procedure on my 744 and with trigger pulled back/full lockup, cylinder has no end shake (front/back play) at all, but by forcing the cylinder back into the lock ball it obviously goes back the travel of the ball until released, springing back to within .006 again. Is that normal for these guns? 

  

Yes that is normal!

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Rex Beachmont
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October 2, 2018 - 1:38 pm
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My Baby Lets Me Do What I Want 

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snake-eye
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October 2, 2018 - 1:50 pm
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Wbrco said
So I also backed the grip screw out until half the head was showing, and ran up to the range.

Out of 30, 2 FTF. However in single action the rounds that FTF fired fine.

Calling CZ tomorrow for a new mainspring.

They also have both a short and long grip screw listed on the website. I'll ask which one is correct.  

This is a longshot, but sometimes the mainspring seat works its way back out of the frame. It is rare because the seat is usually peened in place at the factory, but I have seen it on a couple of Dans (both were 715s). Generally, the seat should be screwed into the frame until only one or 2 threads are showing. If yours is backed out much farther, or is loose, this can result in light strikes on the primer because the mainspring will not be compressed the proper amount.

As I said, a longshot, but worth checking when you have the grip off.

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Andrew1220
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October 3, 2018 - 10:46 am
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I had light strikes with my 715 in double action only. Spoke with Bob at DW and he said to install endshake shims. I installed the 0.004" shim and boom no more light strikes

https://www.triggershims.com/cylinder_shims.html#S14

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Wbrco
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October 16, 2018 - 7:57 pm
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Andrew1220 said
I had light strikes with my 715 in double action only. Spoke with Bob at DW and he said to install endshake shims. I installed the 0.004" shim and boom no more light strikes

https://www.triggershims.com/cylinder_shims.html#S14  

So, after installing the new factory mainspring, failures are less, but still there.

@snake-eye The mainspring seat just has a couple of threads showing. I'm not able to turn it.

@Andrew1220 even with no measurable endshake gap when not compressing the ball?

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snake-eye
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October 17, 2018 - 8:49 am
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Sounds like the mainspring seat is fine.

Shims are cheap. It's worth trying. Start with .002 and work up.

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Ole Dog
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October 17, 2018 - 10:01 am
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FTF with double action and not single action is because the DA hammer travel is way shorter than SA. Hence, more momentum . 

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