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15-2 cylinder stop fell out of side plate/red lock tight a good fix?
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stonebuster
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August 28, 2019 - 3:57 pm
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That bad news is after 30 rounds of 38spl the cylinder stop fell out of the side plate on my 15-2. The good news is I found it. I read red lock tight or crazy glue works to hold it. I realize I need to remove the side plate and make sure the stop is flush with side plate. I’d rather use lock tight than crazy glue. I’ll order an extra one or two if they’re avaiIMG_0221.JPGImage Enlarger

lable. Any advice from you experts is appreciated.

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snake-eye
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August 28, 2019 - 5:13 pm
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Congratulations on finding yours. I was not so lucky. 

Be careful pressing it back in. If you don’t support the sideplate it can crack. I didn’t use anything special, just rubber inserts for my vice.

Red locktite is a good choice.

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mister callan
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August 28, 2019 - 5:54 pm
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On the inside the sideplate is slightly recessed in that area, use something of the correct thickens when re-installing to stop it & keep it from protruding internally.

Matthew Quigley on handguns:

“I said I never had much use for one. Never said

I didn't know how to use it.”

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hugelk
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August 29, 2019 - 2:24 am
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Red loctite works very well. It is important to degrease the hole and cylinder stop well. Use q-tips and brake clean, acetone etc .  If you are confident in your gun smithing abilities, many will stake the stop in place.  Good luck

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stonebuster
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August 29, 2019 - 10:44 am
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IMG_0222-2.JPG

After the warnings about cracking the side plate I took a close look before I started and it appears to be cracked at the weakest point already. The crack isn’t visible anywhere else but where the photo shows it. Not on the sides or polished top of the side plate. I reinstalled the cylinder stop with red lock tight and I guess I’ll just keep an eye on it to see if the crack travels. A previous owner may not have heeded the advice given here. Only had the gun for a few days and had to reset gap, blue lock tight the ejector rod that was loosening, reinstall the cylinder stop and adjust the over travel screw on the trigger. Now a cracked side plate. Looks like it’s project gun but I’m learning a lot and for some reason still like the gun a lot. I thinking it probably wouldn’t be safe to shoot even 38 spl without running the risk of damaging the gun or worse. Correct?

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jertex
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August 29, 2019 - 7:09 pm
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Bummer, I’ve had mine for about two years now & never heard of this issue. Now I’m a bit leary and glad I know about it.

Jerry

4 Dans and counting...

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rwsem
SOWELA (Southwest Louisiana)

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August 30, 2019 - 5:18 am
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I wouldn’t be concerned with that- particularly if it isn’t showing a crack on the edge of the bluing.  Just be mindful when installing the side plate and don’t force it.  Continue to shoot normally.

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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stonebuster
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August 30, 2019 - 6:28 am
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rwsem said
I wouldn’t be concerned with that- particularly if it isn’t showing a crack on the edge of the bluing.  Just be mindful when installing the side plate and don’t force it.  Continue to shoot normally.  

Now that’s what I wanted to hear. The truth is, I was probably going to keep asking until someone told me what I wanted to hear. Thanks. Is there anything I could try using to keep the crack from traveling?

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rwsem
SOWELA (Southwest Louisiana)

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August 31, 2019 - 4:29 am
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I’m not 100% convinced it’s a crack. Many side plates have the same or similar lines in the same place.  It may be a result of the manufacturing process. If not, I have a 15-2 with the same issue that is regularly fed 158 gr .357; no issues.

DW-Side-Plate-15-2.JPG

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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stonebuster
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August 31, 2019 - 11:03 am
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rwsem said
I’m not 100% convinced it’s a crack. Many side plates have the same or similar lines in the same place.  It may be a result of the manufacturing process. If not, I have a 15-2 with the same issue that is regularly fed 158 gr .357; no issues.

DW-Side-Plate-15-2.JPG

  

That’s interesting since your’s is in exactly the same spot. It’s hard to tell from your picture if it’s jagged like mine. I thought it was a machining mark until I noticed it was jagged looking. Since it originated at the hole(weakest point) and was jagged looking made me believe it was a crack(maybe not). Either way I’ll keep shooting and not worry about it. Happy to hear it hasn’t been an issue and thanks for your post. 

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Ole Dog
ocala, fl

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August 31, 2019 - 8:12 pm
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I think the world of the other Ron but I suspect it is a crack. Just not all the way. I haven’t been on the forum much lately so I was a little late in warning you about hitting the ejector rod hard if cases are stuck. The cylinder stop did not fall out. It broke out. Dan Wesson sells replacement ones that press fit in with red loctite to hold it. The edges of yours may be ragged and hard to put back. Snake-eye may have some also. The design flaw was corrected in 1981 on stainless guns and in 1986 on blue guns. 

  If your sideplate breaks it is more serious. Dan Wesson is out of stock and sideplates are fitted before the frame is polished and blued. A used sideplate is your only option and very difficult to fit right. I have a couple of used ones but they are scratched and may not fit well. As Ron said, don’t force it in and you should be alright. Most sideplates break being forced in. 

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Hugowiglitz
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November 18, 2019 - 6:10 am
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Hi guys, 

Just unboxed my recent purchase and have found the cylinder stop you speak of to be missing 🙁

Are these still available from anywhere?

Cheers

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stonebuster
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November 18, 2019 - 2:55 pm
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EWK website says small frame cylinder stop is in stock at $18.95. Red lock tite has worked holding my stop for the last 200 rounds. As others warned me don’t force it too much or you may break the side plate.

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