
September 21, 2013

Hello Folks,
I was the successful high bidder on a Monson DW 44 Rem Mag revolver. The gun will come with a 4" and 6" barrel. My main interest is in mounting an optic, in particular an Ultradot sight. For this it appears I will need an EWK 8" RH barrel assembly, or I'll need to drill and tap the 6" shroud for an EWK RH Picatinny/Weaver Rail adapter. I contacted Eric at EWK and he said he doesn't anticipate making any 8" RH barrel assemblies until early next year.
At this time I would like some feedback on my purchase, and how to set it up to suit my needs. Of course, I won't even see the gun for a couple of weeks, because we have to do an interstate transfer. Anyway, help please.
Thanks, Tom

February 16, 2013



Dans Club
April 18, 2014

I saw a rail base on gunsamerica. Might take a look at those.
Oath Keeper #021479 NRA #206814004
Member AAGSR Member AGA #83120600233
"To preserve liberty, it is essential that the whole body of the people always possess arms and be taught alike, especially when young, how to use them."
Richard Henry Lee
American Statesman, 1788

August 29, 2009

Drill and tap it and put a Weigand base on it...

Range Officer

Range Officers

Dans Club
February 28, 2009


September 21, 2013

zoommb said
Don't drill a factory original shroud!!Get an aftermarket shroud from Eric or get a no-drill mount for your sight, please.
JMO.
-Mike
Hi Mike,
If someone needs a factory original set for his collection, I would be willing to trade the barrel and shroud for an equivalent EWK assembly.
Thanks, Tom

September 21, 2013

Hello Folks,
Here's another question: how tightly do I torque the barrel nut? When I screw in the barrel it will be touching the feeler gauge, and that has to be loose enough that I can get the gauge out. So apparently all the torque on the barrel is from the front end. But I don't know how to gauge how hard to bear down on the tool?
Thanks, Tom


Dans Club

DWF Supporters
April 20, 2010

It is hard to say how tight to make the barrel nut, I make mine as tight as I can by hand with my EWK wrench, without cranking so hard as to risk slipping off and damaging something. You don't have to kill it. I set the gap with the gauge and then open the cylinder and hold my finger on the breech end of the barrel while I am tightening the nut so the barrel cannot turn with the nut.
"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"

Range Officer

Range Officers

Dans Club
February 28, 2009

I leave the gauge between the tightest position on the cylinder and the barrel, spin the barrel nut on until it doesn't spin freely anymore, then grip the barrel wrench and gradually apply as much torque as I can by hand. If I can still easily remove the gauge, I'm good, if not, I remove the shroud and try again because I got too vigorous with the tightening. That almost never happens anymore now that I've figured out how to do it.
A warning here: the threads on the front of the barrel and the barrel nut must be clean or they'll grab and turn the barrel.
-Mike

Supporter
Range Officer

Dans Club

Range Officers
Members
July 2, 2011

zoommb said
A warning here: the threads on the front of the barrel and the barrel nut must be clean or they'll grab and turn the barrel.
-Mike
That is so true. A tiny drop of oil can help.
To the paranoid people who check behind shower curtains for murderers:
if you find one...what's your plan?


Dans Club
March 2, 2008

I don't have direct knowledge of what Eric's package includes. My guess would be that there is an Allen wrench for the grip screw and one for the front sight.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin

August 15, 2014

The allen wrenches are for use in disassembly of the revolver. The following link gives the details. The largest one, as Steve mentions, is for removing the grip/stock.
https://www.danwessonforum.com/forum/reloading/large-frame-disassembly-tutorial-pics/


Dans Club
April 18, 2014

Should be grip screw, sight screw and the side plate/trigger over travel screw.
Oath Keeper #021479 NRA #206814004
Member AAGSR Member AGA #83120600233
"To preserve liberty, it is essential that the whole body of the people always possess arms and be taught alike, especially when young, how to use them."
Richard Henry Lee
American Statesman, 1788
All very good advice. Never over tighten anything on a dan. That goes for the grip , sideplate/trigger group, and barrel nut. I clean the barrel, frame and nut threads with a brass brush and oil. Wipe and screw the barrel into the frame with the cylinder open. Screw in as far as it will go and back it out, close the cylinder and set the gap. The large frame should be .002. Even the small frame benefits from less than .006. Check each chamber and set the .002 on the proudest one. The chamber with the smallest gap. With a little practice you will dispence with the gauge and eyeball it. After a number of rounds the cylinder may start to bind with the smaller gap from expansion or powder. Reset the gap or wipe the face of the cylinder.BTW , you may want to experiment with the tightness of the barrel nut to see which results in the best accuracy. Like a guitar string tuned properly, the proper tightness produces the best result. I am not a good enough shot for it to matter but some are.


Dans Club
March 2, 2008

Tatume said
photohause said
Enjoy it and shoot it!Photo
You bet I will! I'm not a collector, I'll wear it out (or try).
My experience is that you cannot wear one out. If someone does something incredibly stupid, NEVER cleans, lubricates, maintains, punches five rounds downstream behind a squib, grips it by the barrel and uses it to frame out the backyard screen house...
Well, it's gonna break.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
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