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Do I need a new side plate for model 15-2 or is it fixable.
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dunlop
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December 7, 2025 - 6:23 pm
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I have a Model 15-2. A small part just above trigger that extends out the side plate to keep the cylinder from sliding backwards when you eject shells fell out. Gun smith told me I need a new side plate as it is a permanent part of it. Looks too clean to me to have broken off the side plate. Any suggestions on how to fix. FYI I have been shooting Hornady 158 gr XTP with 15.2 grains of Winchester 296. Hornady Book 11 has 12.4 gr for min and 16.0 gr for max. Hodgdon website goes all the way up to 16.7 gr max for that powder and bullet so I don't feel like I'm over loading and fired brass looks just fine.  20251207_164728.jpgImage Enlarger

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605Dart
SW PA
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December 7, 2025 - 8:03 pm
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Welcome to the forum from PA!!! 
I am not 100% on that but someone will help you out with the appropriate fix.
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Scout728
North Texas
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Ole Dog
ocala, fl

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December 7, 2025 - 10:15 pm
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Dan Wesson /CZ may have some replacement cylinder stops(that is what they are called in Dan Wesson terminology). If not, eBay might have some. I have a bunch if you can't find them but they have a little rust and would have to be polished or reblued. I can send you one if you PM your address. Let me know so I know to check my PMs.

 I am not sure if they are press fitted or part of the original sideplate. I think they break off. The hole may have to be filed, clean or the stop fitted. It is not hard. Superglue the replacement in but be careful to not go below the sideplate or some lockwork may rub.

  It is not caused by the load you are using on your reloads. It is a design flaw and they get knocked off by hammering the ejector rod to remove stuck cases. When shooting you should take an unsharpened pencil and use the eraser end to knock out the cases while holding the cylinder steady.

   When removing the sideplate or replacing it do not pry it off or pound it in. With the stop removed the sideplate is very delicate at that point and the tongue under the cylinder will break off. Then you have a serious issue. You can have it braided back together or try to fit a new sideplate. DW doesn't gave any so eBay is the best way to find one. Most used sideplates have the scratches on them from the extractor star. Always keep you index and middle finger of your left hand pushing against the cylinder as you eject cases to keep the cylinder from closing while the extractor rod is extended. The main issue with a new sideplate is that the sideplate is fitted, before the gun is polished. It is extremely difficult to find a sideplate that will fit like the original. I used to buy bare frames from a packbreaker(who sold off parts) and rebuild them into finished guns. I have acquired, a couple dozen sideplates to choose from but sometimes none will work well. If you buy a bare frame ask the seller if he also has the sideplate.

  Lastly, read " The Average Joe Tuneup" in the Gunsmithing topic of the forum. They teach you to use a wood handled screwdriver, or rubber hammer to tap the grip tang until the sideplate pops off. Never try to pry it off. Dan Wessons were designed to not need a gunsmith for most things other makes do. No need to have a gunsmith or the factory to rebarreled or change the grip frame. You can fix most problems easily. Gunsmith are Colt and Smith folk. Don't let them near your Dan. If your gunsmith knew anything about them he would have known everything I just told you. They can ruin a Dan. And never file the sear the do a trigger job. It will ruin the lockwork. That is another topic. I can barely use a screwdriver and I learned to completely take apart and put together a small frame Dan( 22, 32, 357).

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Ole Dog
ocala, fl

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December 7, 2025 - 10:20 pm
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P. S., Never overtighten any screw on a Dan or the barrel nut. Snug is enough.  

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