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October 14, 2013
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Just bought a Dan about 2 months ago at local range here in huntersville nc. Gun checked out fine probably 90%. First time at range 2 out of 10 rounds misfires looked like light hits. Took the dan apart checked all parts all looked ok cleaned and reassembled. Back to the range same thing. Took apart again double checked can't find a thing wrong. Back to the range told them I bought my own ammo will not use reloads they have. By the way using 38 special. Thier reloads were atlanta ammo wad cutters. Today put 50 rounds remington all double action not one misfire or light hit. Not saying much for thier reloads. Thought this might help someone with same problem.
TKS GREY GHOST
February 21, 2011
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Firing double or single action?
I had a similar problem with double action only, it turned out the CCI primers were too hard for the short fall of the DW hammer. Changing primer brands cured the problem.
Theres also a possibility of the grip screw fouling the hammer base but that often seems to be in either single or double action.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
October 14, 2013
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Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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Given that different primers have different characteristics, grip screw seating depth can still be an an issue.
The grip screw only needs to be tight enough to keep the grip on the gun and not wobbling or falling off. Even slightly too tight can cause inconsistent function in a DW revolver.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
February 21, 2011
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Try single action & see if the problem goes away. If it does then primer hardness is probably the issue.
If it doesn't then try backing the grip screw off 1~2 turns & see if that fixes it. If it does you can either shorten the screw or put a couple of washers under the head.
If its neither then we can go on from there with replacement springs & so on.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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FWIW, I've never had a problem with hard primers in any DW. It was always the grip screw.. I habitually use CCIs on my hunting loads which, supposedly, are "hard" primers. I use Federal for BR and other target guns which are supposedly "soft".
Just my $.02.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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June 25, 2013
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What I noticed on one 15-2 was that the apparent light strikes in double action where caused by a previous owners trigger job. Folks like to slick the action by putting in reduced weight springs.
Now looking at the works I found the grip screw is easy to check because the first thing that doesn't work if the screw is in to far is the gun won't cock in single action. Then you got to screw the grip screw a lot further before you interfere with the double action. At least that the way I see it.
Now the hammer travels further when cocked in single action. In double action the hammer travels less than single action.
If you check out springs you see that they have a weight to inches (Spring rate) ratio.
I guess what I'm trying to say is if you compress the spring more in single action you will have more potential energy to be released and become kinetic energy than the less compressed spring due to the less travel required by double action.
So I put in a heavier main spring and the problem pretty much went away.
But I since have started using Federal Primers there has not been a single FTF.
I recently reloaded some 357 with cci primers again and going back out to see what happens.
If I'm on to something cool, if not set me straight......please! 
Endeavor to persevere,
Press on regardless.
Need little, want less, love more.
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Dans Club
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November 17, 2008
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Over time we have had several threads on FTF due to light primer strikes. Several reasons have emerged.
- Grip screw interfering with hammer spring. The easiest to check and fix.
- Hard primers.
- Weak, worn, or changed springs.
- Worn or gunked up firing pin.
- Sagging cylinder due to worn bushing, bent crane, or cylinder alignment ball issue.
Most of these issues are a easy check and fix. Or the problem may be a combination of some or all of them together. Myself I want my Dans to work with any primer as I feel if it won't detonate a CCI primer it almost won't detonate the others. Other than that check the grip screw, check the alignment ( primer strike should be close to center) and clean the heck out of everything. If that doesn't fix it get new springs. If it still has issues maybe it's time to "call the man Aunt Bea" Just my two cents worth.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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I purchased a 715 that was clearly well used. There was a very high percentage of FTF - mainly in double action but also in single action. I tried all of the suggestions above, plus a few not yet mentioned. Ended by sending to DW and they added a spacer in front of the cylinder and replaced the hand. Shoots great now. I would check the cylinder movement, front to back. If it's loose it will absorb hammer energy and contribute to possibility of FTF.
Another thing to check is adjustment of the cylinder aligning ball. This is likely a rare cause, but it can contribute if it is too loose.
As to springs - with all factory new springs on my 715, the "average joe method" reduce the double action trigger pull by 1.5 pounds. I'm happy with that!
Good luck!
February 21, 2011
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Where did you find stronger springs? I'd like to replace mine, but I can only find lighter ones.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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They were replaced at the factory during repair - at least I assume they are stronger than typical aftermarket that are bought because they are less powerful.
January 26, 2009
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Make sure the bolt is coming up into the recess in the cylinder before the hammer falls. You can do this by very slowly pulling the trigger and watching to see if the cylinder locks before the hammer falls. It should lock up just before the hammer falls. If it doesn't, you can get off center primer strikes. This would be a timing issue. I had to replace the hand and install a headspace shim. Problem went away after that.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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jwk, that sounds just like what snake-eye had done. It is now burned into my brain. thanks guys.
June 20, 2014
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How do I remove/replace the firing pin?
I recently purchased a 15-2 (Monson) revolver which looked to be about 90%. At the range I too experienced light hits and FTF that others on the site have discussed (except when using American Federal ammo.)
I have replaced the main spring twice - once from EWK and the second time from Numrich. The EWK did not solve the problem. The Numrich is substantially shorter than the EWK but seems stiffer. I also replaced the Hammer return spring also from Numrich. Range time in a few days to see if this helps. I also purchased a replacement firing pin and spring from Numrich, but I can't figure out how to remove the old one and replace it. I am told there is a pin on the frame that a 1/16th punch will remove (and purchased the replacement pin) but cannot find it. Can anyone assist? Thank you.
February 29, 2012
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GARY ROTH said
How do I remove/replace the firing pin?
I recently purchased a 15-2 (Monson) revolver which looked to be about 90%. At the range I too experienced light hits and FTF that others on the site have discussed (except when using American Federal ammo.)
I have replaced the main spring twice - once from EWK and the second time from Numrich. The EWK did not solve the problem. The Numrich is substantially shorter than the EWK but seems stiffer. I also replaced the Hammer return spring also from Numrich. Range time in a few days to see if this helps. I also purchased a replacement firing pin and spring from Numrich, but I can't figure out how to remove the old one and replace it. I am told there is a pin on the frame that a 1/16th punch will remove (and purchased the replacement pin) but cannot find it. Can anyone assist? Thank you.
I had a very similar light strike problem in double action mode with my 714 Dan Wesson. I also ordered a few replacement firing pins from Numrich, and tried replacing the firing pin hoping to fix the issue.
Here is a picture showing the roll pin location (circled in red) that you need to remove to take out the firing pin. It is above the upper screw on the side plate.
The firing pin also has a spring, make sure that you put the spring on in the correct direction. Also check the firing pin and channel for any burrs or spots where it could possibly hang up, clean it well while you have the firing pin out, and do not over oil the area as it will just attract more crud. This is also a good time to replace the firing pin spring since you should have a spare from the EWK small parts kit.
I ordered two replacement firing pins from Numrich, and I modified one by removing some of the firing pin base stop bushing. I was worried that I did not have enough firing pin depth or protrusion and thinking that might have been why I had my light strike problems in double action mode.
(rough example drawn out below)
Since I had ordered a EWK parts kit, and a Wolf Spring set as well for the Dan. I performed the average Joe tune up on my gun and started swapping around main springs.
https://www.danwessonforum.com/forum/reloading/tuning-up-your-15-2-the-average-joe-method/
During this tear down to replace the main spring I noticed that the spring in my Dan Wesson had been cut shorter by quite a few coils in an attempt to improve the trigger feel. It was MUCH weaker than the lightest Wolf spring I had due to this.
I replaced the mainspring with the first spring I had on hand, a 7.5 lb Wolf spring. I noticed I did not get quite as many light strikes in double action mode as I did before, but it was still happening occasionally. I had been using Winchester USA white box 38 special as my baseline for most of this, so I kept using it for all of the rest of my testing.
I planned to try a heavier main spring, as things had gotten better after adding the 7.5 lb spring.
I had taken the Dan apart a few times at this point and gotten pretty familiar with all the internals. This time while it was all apart, I polished up everything inside and replaced all the small parts and springs from the EWK kit. Thanks again to the Average Joe Tune Up.
I went up to the next heavier spring, an 8 lb Wolf spring and things worked even better still. (fewer light strikes, but 1-2 in a 100 rounds was still too many for me)
I could not find a source for a 9-10 lb factory rate spring from any of the usual suspects. All Wolf seemed to carry were the reduced power springs for better trigger feel, so I called CZ-USA/Dan Wesson. They were very nice on the phone, and sold me a factory weight 9 lb main/hammer spring for my 714.
After cleaning up all the internals and polishing them lightly, and adding the 9 lb spring, my gun actually felt better than with the cut spring installed.
The factory Dan Wesson 9lb spring worked like a champ, and it cleared up ALL of my light strike issues in double action mode. I know it sounds odd, but my Dan is actually more accurate as well with the heavier spring installed than with the cut spring. It has been 100% reliable ever since with factory ammunition, and my hand loads. (including CCI primers)
Not saying this is your exact problem, Just relating some of what I went through trying to find my light strike issues in hopes that it may help you as well. I feel so much more comfortable with the internals of my Dan after all this, and I have really come to appreciate the simplicity of the gun.
- Bullwolf
April 28, 2014
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Sure. It is just above the top of the side plate, or if looking on the right side, it's... uh... the only pin you can see. 
Edit: Oops, there *is* another up by the sight, but nowhere near the firing pin. I see Bullwolf beat me to it.
June 20, 2014
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i am so sorry and feel really dumb for asking but on my gun, I can't see anything in the hole circled in red; If there is a pin, what size punch do i need to pull the pin out?
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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1/16" is the correct punch size. We're here to help- just let us know what is going on. Do you have a wood or rubber grip?
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
June 20, 2014
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Thanks the grip on the gun is rubber, but of course it is off the gun when disassembled. we tried the 1/16th punch but didn't get far and were afraid of damaging the gun . a paper clip will pass through the hole without touching anything. I have the proper tools, 1/16 punch, brass hammer and composite backing but am hesitant to bang away at what i can't see.
February 29, 2012
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A paper clip will pass through the channel because it is small a roll pin that is retaining the firing pin, and not a sold piece of bar stock.
Take a look again at the Average Joe Tune Up as the 16th photograph shows it being removed.
https://www.danwessonforum.com/forum/reloading/tuning-up-your-15-2-the-average-joe-method/
If it does not want to come out from one side, try tapping the roll pin out from the other side to get it started. You shouldn't need to force it once it starts moving, but you will require the punch to press it all the way through the frame hole. It's (the roll pin) a very easy part to replace should anything happen to it in the process.
- Bullwolf
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