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Cylinder Stop Replacement?
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Zedbra
Squamish, British Columbia
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June 9, 2015 - 9:36 pm
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Took a few friends to the range today for a birthday and when I got one of my 15-2's into my hands, I noticed the cylinder stop was missing from the side plate.  We looked on the range but it is a dirt range and mixed with all kinds of fragmented items - no luck finding it.

 

Is that part specific to the Dan, or can I go to a local gunsmith and see if he can press another one into the side plate?

 

Oh - one other question that I asked before but need other advice: one of my 15-2's does not like ejecting .357 brass.  I soaked the cylinder for 24 hours with Wipeout, then used a brass brush on a drill to hone the cylinder and that hasn't seemed to help at all.  Is there another method for honing or cleaning the cylinders I can try, or is this also a gunsmith job?

 

Thanks again.

 

Ian

 

http://i459.photobucket.com/albums/qq314/Zedbra/MIsc/Private/2015-06-09%2018.14.37_zpsthctagln.jpgImage Enlarger

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Ole Dog
ocala, fl

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June 10, 2015 - 7:02 am
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When I started reading your post I said to myself, " Self, it looks like a case of sticky cases". Next to the heartbreak of psoriasis,  losing the stop is about the most aggravating thing that can happen . Actually it is pretty common and I am sure pounding on the ejector is the cause. Later guns and models had stops that were part of the sideplate. When it happened to me I ordered 2 from DW. The are not cheap and the shipping seemed excessive for a little piece of metal so an extra seemed a good idea. If you have DWAS it is a good idea to have one or two on hand. I broke a sideplate I was trying to fit to a frame and ended up with a stop as a result. It somewhat mollified  my chagrin.  As far as sticky cases, you seem to have done the right things. Are your cylinders dried of oil? Or perhaps different ammo. If still no help a Smith can use a cylinder sized round stone to polish the chamber I believe. You could probably buy one and do it yourself. If anyone has a source for them let me know please. It would be a good thing to have.Good luck.

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Zedbra
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June 10, 2015 - 10:06 am
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Thanks Ole Dog.  The 15-2 that the cylinder stop popped out of has had barely any use (under 200 rounds on the gun total) and the cases literally could slide out without using the ejector.  I would have thought that the one revolver where the cases don't want to eject and I have to use the bench at times on the ejector - that gun should have had the cylinder stop pop. 

 

I will look into being able to buy parts from CZ Canada, I'm not sure if CZ USA will ship to Canada.  Do you think it is possible another stop from a different brand would fit?

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mister callan
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June 10, 2015 - 11:05 am
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I cured sticky ejection with a little strip of kitchen "Scotchbrite" attached to a cleaning rod section with duck tape & rotated slowly on an electric screwdriver. It polishes & knocks of high spots with almost zero material removal.wow

Matthew Quigley on handguns:

“I said I never had much use for one. Never said

I didn't know how to use it.”

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Zedbra
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June 10, 2015 - 3:54 pm
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^ sounds like it would work, but I think I will let professional hands deal with the cylinder. 

 

I called CZ USA and they then forwarded me to Dan Wesson, spoke to a fellow named Sean in their parts department.  Price is still $17 and then $9 to ship.  They will not ship to Canada, so I am trying to get a few ordered and sent to a broker that is bringing in some custom parts for me already on next month's import.  I was hoping I could swap side plates but it sounds like each one is fit to the frame - so I'll just have to wait for the parts.

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Zedbra
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June 13, 2015 - 12:05 am
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Managed to order a few cylinder stops through a legal importer,  I left a message with the gunsmith and he called me back to inform me the best way to set the new cylinder stop into place.  He said I should file out the side plate so that the cylinder stop will fit in with hand pressure and then put a few drops of superglue on the stop when it is half way in, then push it in the rest of the way.  He stressed not to push hard on the side plate as it may crack - he also mentioned that they only have a couple of blued 15-2 side plates left in stock and they may not make any more. 

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Ole Dog
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June 13, 2015 - 7:02 pm
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Uh oh! Running out of parts? Thanks for the heads up. I would be REALLY careful with that super glue. Do you mean put the super glue on the stop on the inside of the sideplate.? 

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snake-eye
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June 14, 2015 - 8:41 am
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I've only replaced one and maybe I was just lucky, but I used a vice with rubber jaw inserts. It supported the side plate quite well and the stop pressed right in. Only trick is getting the depth right. Just took it slow and checked often as it got closer to where I wanted it.

Personally, I would not consider filing the side plate. Send it to the factory before that. Much more difficult to replace a screwed up side plate than a cylinder stop.

You will have to do what you are comfortable with.

Good luck.

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Zedbra
Squamish, British Columbia
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June 14, 2015 - 10:39 am
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Ole Dog said
Uh oh! Running out of parts? Thanks for the heads up. I would be REALLY careful with that super glue. Do you mean put the super glue on the stop on the inside of the sideplate.? 

That is what the gun smith recommended, yes. 

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hugelk
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June 14, 2015 - 11:10 am
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Hi zedra. I have done 3 replacements using loctite red. Basically a super superglue designed for threads and metal to metal contact.  Friends say they are  all still in nice and tight . The factory used to "stAke" them in but that takes a special touch. Good luck

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Steve
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June 14, 2015 - 11:11 am
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Before filing the side plate, do a trial fit of the stop with the side plate assembled to the frame. Hopefully you will have a moderately snug fit, other wise some slow careful fitting may be required.

I have seen two different adhesives used, SuperGlue and Locktite.

Obviously, after fitting is done, adhere the cylinder stop to the side plate, allow everything to harden and cure, and re-install the side plate.

My first 15-2 (a 1977 gun) had this problem and after successfully locating the stop and pushing it back in place several times, it was ultimately lost. When  bought replacement ones (from DW Norwich) I was told that this was a problem with early revolvers, and the cylinder stop was produced as a service part. The stop that was integral to the early side plate had a very sharply defined profile that allowed it to fracture and become a separate piece. The design evolved to have a profile that "smoothed" up from the side plate strengthening the part and removing the fracture point.

There was never a "cylinder" stop in the Dan Wesson design.

I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.

George Carlin

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hugelk
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June 14, 2015 - 11:13 am
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Make sure there is no oil residue on stop or hole in side plate   Use brakeclean or acetone on cuetip.  Hugelk

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Zedbra
Squamish, British Columbia
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June 14, 2015 - 12:02 pm
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hugelk said
Make sure there is no oil residue on stop or hole in side plate   Use brakeclean or acetone on cuetip.  Hugelk

Thanks hugelk - I originally thought of using red loctite, we shall see when the stops get here - I ordered 3 in total as I plan on keeping my Dans and one day passing them onto my sons, so I have been collecting parts when the opportunity arises.

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Zedbra
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July 25, 2015 - 7:13 pm
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I finally received my new cylinder stops the other day and out of the three I ordered, one fit into the side plate much easier (though would only press in half way with my fingers) than the other two.  I pushed it out from the back, slightly filed the sharp edge of the stop that was getting pressed into the plate, then added some Loctite (only had blue) and used electricians tape on some needle nose pliers and pushed it into the side plate with no problems.

 

Hopefully, this one stays put.  If not, I have two spares - ready and waiting.  Thanks for everyone's input.

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snake-eye
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