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April 18, 2014
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rwsem said
What concerned me was the statement " another ring, about 1/8 inch wide". That made me think that the cylinder was rubbing the frame, excessively.
That is what I understood from ED's post and the statement that cyl. binds and rubs when you turn it at full open. So I go look at disassembly thread, and yes it is the crane lock but it seemed to me that it should prevent the crane from rolling over enough to allow the cylinder that much contact to frame. If I'm reading the content here correctly and then read the disasssembly thread correctly. Again Ron I do not have a large frame Dan, so maybe I'm missing something here completely.
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February 22, 2009
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So, I went to my Safe to pull out my most used DW.
Pic 1- second "turn ring"
Pic 2- normal rub on frame
Pic 3- width of wear on rear of cylinder
This 22 has many thousand rounds through her and is a good representation of what I consider normal.
I hope this helps. It's hard to describe without actually being there to help you out.
Regards, Ron
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
Dans Club
April 18, 2014
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I go back and look at his second pic and it almost looks like there is not enough frame to stop the crane. What am I missing? Ed I wish I was your neighbor cause I'd love to get my eyes and hands on that piece for a minute.
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"To preserve liberty, it is essential that the whole body of the people always possess arms and be taught alike, especially when young, how to use them."
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February 22, 2009
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Looks OK to me- Ed, let us know if those pictures of mine are what you see on yours. I'll check runout on one of my cranes tomorrow or the next day to see what I get.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
August 15, 2014
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My confusion continues.
What I showed above may prove nothing now that I think about it. I don't have an inside mic and don't trust dial calipers for the purpose of measuring the space between the crane and the frame mount stud/pin. Seeing that they are parallel would have more meaning and that they are 90 deg from the base part. Probably a simple way to do this but I'm too stupid.
The ~1/8 inch ring I mentioned is what will eventually happen around the rear side of the cylinder where it contacts the frame. Think of turning the cylinder to reload, when the cylinder is open. The part of the cylinder that makes contact with the frame is already marred. Since the gun has seen little use it hasn't worn thru the blueing as it has on the frame. You can't 'spin' the cylinder when open…it drags. Even with the barrel pointed down.
The closest pin gage that slides into the barrel without possibly binding goes down and into the chamber with no problem. As I mentioned previously the cylinder seems parallel to the frame when closed, and both opens and closes easily.
I would have no concerns with firing the gun now that I have the barrel tool and can correctly set the gap, but this problem is still there. Sure, I could send it back to DW but thats money I'd rather not spend unless there was no other choice.
August 15, 2014
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Ron, just saw your other reply. If this continues I think it'll be much wider than what you show on your revolver. You can't spin the cylinder when open is the best way to describe the problem due to the drag/rub. Never had this with any revolver I own/have owned.
I do appreciate the time it took you for your post. Thanks.
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February 22, 2009
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Definitely not normal. We'll figure it out but I'd think the only thing it can be is the crane.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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November 17, 2008
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Another thought. (Scary when I have thoughts!) With the cylinder closed and latched does the crane fit flush to the frame or is there a gap? Looking from the front of the frame is where I mean. If the square part of the crane has a slight twist it will throw alignment off but there would be no run out on the axis of either shaft. Did that make sense cuz it is kinda hard to describe what I mean.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
August 15, 2014
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I understand JB, thanks, but I've got it fixed. I pulled my head out of my rectum and clamped the piece in a V block on a surface rock. The crane was bent .004 inches. Used the handle of a screwdriver as an 'opener' and soft blows with a dead blow hammer as a 'closer'. It took quite awhile as I'd never do one before ,but got it where the indicator showed 0 at both ends. Dry fitted to the frame and the cylinder spins freely….no contact at all.
I think the normal amount of free play at the end of the shaft allowed the cylinder to lock and unlock easily. The ejector rod is scheduled for delivery today so I should have it all back together tomorrow.
Thanks to you all, and especially Ron for taking the time with several photos. Much appreciate.
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February 22, 2009
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Great news. Now- don't fling open the cylinder and it should give years of great service.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
August 15, 2014
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Just to bring this to an end, here's a photo reassembled and sporting it's new 6VH barrel.
Dans Club
April 18, 2014
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Looking good Ed, glad you were able to get her straitened out..
Oath Keeper #021479 NRA #206814004
Member AAGSR Member AGA #83120600233
"To preserve liberty, it is essential that the whole body of the people always possess arms and be taught alike, especially when young, how to use them."
Richard Henry Lee
American Statesman, 1788
August 15, 2014
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Thanks, so was I. The people at the range where I bought it thought it looked more like a 'magnum' with the new barrel. They were also surprised you could still get parts for DW's. Plus, they had a check for me on the Smith 19-2 I'd left there for sale. It all worked out pretty well. 
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