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44V Cyl Rubbing Frame
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Ed Mc
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August 15, 2014 - 11:16 pm
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Bought a 44V that overall, is in very good condition. Only real problem was the cylinder gap was over .015 and the cylinder has rubbed off some of the frame blueing. Hitting the frame when the cyl is at the bottom of it's open arc.

I thought the ejector rod was probably loose so tightened it after buying the revolver. It was, very much so, and helped the gap problem, but it still hit the frame. Tightened some more and _boink_…..ordered a new rod today from DW. Call me 'Bubba', I called myself worse.

My question: Is this normal? That the cylinder contacts the frame when fully open? It contacts below the rear end of the frame cutout. Other than this the blueing of the frame is excellent. General observation makes me think this weapon has seen little use, as said by the original owner. 

I have ordered the tools from EKW as it the original barrel wrench was lost.

Thanks.

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ese927
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August 17, 2014 - 9:16 am
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e you really need to put up some photos of whats going on with this pistol. I can tell you the cylinder nor crane area should be hitting the frame. Show us what it looks like and where and I'm sure some of us can help you with what is going on. Pics are added easilt here by clic attach. below the reply frame then add file and upload....simple. Lot of guys to help in here. If we cant we'll tell ya that too.

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rwsem
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August 17, 2014 - 11:17 am
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Definitely need a picture. The crane is designed to stop against the frame before the cylinder makes contact with the side of the frame.

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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Ed Mc
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August 17, 2014 - 2:12 pm
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Adding two photos, one showing the cylinder full open and it's angle. The second shows the wear from the cyl on the frame. The shiny area on the front of the cylinder stop and, in front of the cyl stop, on the frame. The 'rub' follows the contour of the frame into the cutout. 

It might be that a little material should have been removed in this part of the frame area when fitting. Blueing adding to the reduction of clearance. In time this will also mar the finish on the rear part of the cylinder where contact is made. Cyl.jpgImage Enlarger

Frame.jpgImage Enlarger

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rwsem
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August 17, 2014 - 3:21 pm
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No issues- that's normal wear that occurs when the cylinder is open and the barrel is pointed up.  In that case there isn't a lot of friction but enough to remove bluing.  Shoot it, once you get a new ejector rod, and have fun!

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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Ed Mc
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August 17, 2014 - 4:23 pm
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rwsem…Thanks for the reply. With the barrel down, cylinder open, the cylinder resists turning as it's rubbing against the frame. If allowed to continue it will have not only have the normal turn ring, but another ring, about 1/8 inch wide, around the rear circumference of the cylinder. 

Earlier I compared the blueing on this DW to my 'Royal Blue' Python……closest I've seen, I'd sure hate to ruin it.  Or maybe I'm being too anal….

Perhaps you can see what I'm talking about on the rear of the cyl in this photo.DW-2-1.jpgImage Enlarger

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rwsem
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August 17, 2014 - 4:41 pm
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Much better angle- now I see exactly what you are talking about.  Just a guess and where I'd look first: I'm thinking that maybe your crane may be bent a bit where the ejector rod threads through?  That would cause the cylinder to be skewed.  When looking at the gap between the bottom of the cylinder and frame, with the cylinder closed, is it evident that the rear is lower than the front?  The cylinder should be parallel to the bottom of the frame cutout- or pretty darn close.

Regards, Ron

 See parallel lines:

Ed-Mcs-44.jpgImage Enlarger

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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Ole Dog
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August 17, 2014 - 7:22 pm
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That is one beautiful gun. I too would be concerned if it was mine. My phone does not let me expand the pictures but I am sure Ron is correct. I would send it back to DW for repairs. Do not let a local gunsmith work on it.  Unfortunately a bent crane is not one of those easy repairs we all love. It is not the guns fault. I am sure the investment casting would not have had extra metal there. That happened when a former owner or someone he was showing it to Bogarted it.  That is flipping the cylinder closed with a flip of one hand.  BTW , that is a gorgeous lg. frame zebra grip. That grip is worth a large premium over the regular walnut grip.

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Ed Mc
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August 17, 2014 - 10:30 pm
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Ron…Ole Dog

If you'll indulge me, a little back story. I made an offer on the gun at a range where I'm a member. The DW was a consignment sale, the owner saying he bought it new and only fired a few boxes of ammo. Common story with 44 mags. Anyway, I made an offer, it was accepted….I filled out the paper work and was about to write the check when I noticed this problem. Backed out on the deal, but after thinking about it that evening I decided to take a chance. I'd thought of a tweaked crane as the source but decided maybe it was just a loose cylinder. Overall condition, seldom found around these parts, etc.

I didn't know if the frame was cast or forged….since it is cast, I agree with Ole Dog that the frame isn't the problem. Once the new ejector rod is in place I'll measure the gap from the frame along the length of the cylinder and see what's found. I don't like the thought of sending something this heavy back to DW as an overnight shipment, as required. Ouch….But, when ordering the ejector rod I also ordered a six inch VH barrel and shroud. In for a penny…..in for something. Heh…..

Thanks, I'll update as things progress.

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rwsem
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August 18, 2014 - 5:47 am
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If the crane is bent, you can replace that yourself.  Meanwhile, if you haven't already, you will understand a lot about the inner workings when you disassemble and reassemble.

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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SHOOTIST357
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August 18, 2014 - 8:42 am
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I'd bet about 99% that crane is bent... not a tough job if you have the tools to do it--best bet is for you to send it to DW and get it done right.

SHOOT

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lbruce
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August 18, 2014 - 9:02 am
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Howdy neighbor. I will throw in my two cents worth, I am not sure I even see the problem you refer to but this may or may not have played a part. On the large frames I have seen where the rear sight elevation screw goes all the way through the top strap, and if turned all the way down can drag against the cylinder causing a drag line as well as distorting the cylinder. Once backed off most of us wouldn't even realize what had happened. On a second look at your pictures I would say a bent crane is the most likely culprit. Good luck and let us know how she comes out. 

LB

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Ed Mc
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August 18, 2014 - 9:19 am
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LB, I guess we are neighbors of sorts. I'm just north of Macon.

What is required in replacing the crane? I'd think the only 'fitting' would be the thickness of the crane lock but I don't claim to be a gunsmith. Did notice on the DW parts list that the crane was a 'Factory Assembly'…..meaning they probably won't sell me the part anyway?

Gentlemen, thanks for all the help.

Ed

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lbruce
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August 18, 2014 - 10:17 am
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I am a little west of Augusta so not so far off. I would guess only minor fitting to the crane but the timing and cylinder alignment would need to be verified. Just my best guess though. 

LB

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Ed Mc
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August 19, 2014 - 11:36 am
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I did check the gap under the cylinder when locked into the frame as Ron suggested. Using feeler gages I found the gap to be the same all the way along the bottom of the cylinder to the frame. Also, the cylinder locks into place and unlocks easily. I suppose it could be tweaked just enough to contact the frame but not effect locking and unlocking……..

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Ed Mc
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August 20, 2014 - 3:10 pm
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Took the DW apart to inspect the crane assembly. These things are really easy to take down….hope it goes back together as easily.

Anyway, put the assembly in my lathe and checked the runout. Measured less than .003, an amount that could easily be the runout of the lathe chuck. I see nothing to convince me that this crane is bent. Maybe it's time to take out a small Swiss file.wink

Crane.jpgImage Enlarger

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rwsem
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August 20, 2014 - 6:50 pm
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Doesn't sound like a big deal... can you take a picture of the area without the bright lighting or flash?  Maybe a cloudy day?  What I'm seeing may be a reflection of something in the room (gotta love DW bluing). 

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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ese927
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August 20, 2014 - 7:30 pm
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Ok guys tell me to pipe down if I'm off here. I do not have a large frame so no opportunities to have one apart. Looking at the large frame disassembly thread it appears that the cylinder stop  fits in so that the crane should not fall that far over. Again, just making an observation of the pics and tics in that thread, no hands on. So tell me if that's wrong. The crane must not be bent from what he's checking. How does it time? How does the action feel. I mean I'm thinking bent crane, it's all out of whack. I mean, unless this crane is not for this gun.  Poke me hard if I'm way off base..

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JJ
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August 20, 2014 - 7:46 pm
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Just wondering if you couldn't remove the detent ball/rear cylinder stop, close the cylinder and look through the cylinder stop opening and check the crane alignment, make sense?

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rwsem
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August 20, 2014 - 8:42 pm
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The crane lock (cylinder stop?? don't know what that is) simply keeps the crane in place.  The crane "stops" against the frame when open.  I'm thinking that what I see in the picture is a reflection and I'm back to my original statement- normal rubbing against the frame at the back.  What concerned me was the statement " another ring, about 1/8 inch wide".  That made me think that the cylinder was rubbing the frame, excessively.

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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